heres a link to the local speed shops dyno

local speed shops website



and heres a link to the dyno manufacturer

autodyn



can someone please give me advice if these are good for rotaries,this is the only dyno in the province of manitoba,canada



Thanks

 

Sounds Good!!!

 

from my experience, a dyno is a dyno, it doesn't matter what car you drive. some shops might have the correction factor set for a specific type of car, but you can get them to set it to SAE

 

Thanks..i pretty much have to scrape for tuning and dynos n all around here and having a rotary and attempting to put a stand alone on it,welll,lets say im on my own,lol..im studying about tuning right now, got like 9 months to read up on it and trying to get every bit of info before i attempt to do anything..



Thankz Again Ppl...

 

As stated before....its all relative....just as long as the right correction is used there should be no problem. I work at a dyno shop here in FL and from what ive seen its all in the shop and how its setup and used. The fact that its a chasis dyno is a very good thing, those are actually preferred over the other types.

 

what does it mean when it says "tuning with no load"(is this tuning for cruise and idle)? and how about tuning "partial load" and "full load"?someone care to give me a example?from my knowledge you are supposed to tune every rpm point weather its timing or fuel and your supposed to start from adding partial load,add a bit more load and eventually add full load to tune..i dont know what load means on the dyno..what do you mean by "right correction"



i know what egt temps are supposed to be and also know what the air/fuel ratio should be at a given rpm and boost..



thanks



I got 8 months to learn to tune my own car,still deciding on ems..

 

i think no load means no load on the rear wheels while tuning....

 

Leeth is correct......loading a dyno means you can simulate going up a hill, so that you can see what it does when the motor is under a load. when tuning it is better to tune with no load on the wheels, just go off what your motor is telling you. The "right correction" is the SAE....(i have no clue what it means) but that is the standard from what i know. But you are correct in planning to tune with the dyno, i say its the best thing since slice bread, because there is a ton of guys out there that tune on the street and 7 out of 10 times thats exactly where the car ends up....on the street.

 

Ok its starting to make sense now..so a person is supposed to tune the car with no load which would be like a car going down a straight road with no hills and it should be tuned going up by every 2 psi via wastegate or boost controller to start it at 2 psi with "no load".once the timing and fuel is in check with no load and its setup to the desired boost level through all the rpm points, we start adding partial load to retard the timing a bit incase we do have to go up a big hill and do the same by starting at 2 psi and upto the desired boost level,this way its good for load and with no load..is anything incorrect or am i missing something important in the process, i know correction maps are the last things to adjust....



Thanks

 

You are correct in the sense that you are to tune w/ no load through your rpms with added boost....but in terms of tuning with a load that im not sure of.....im in FL so there are no hills.... and in the time ive been at the dyno ive yet to see anyone tune with a load applied. From what ive seen the load feature is used as a trouble shoot.....ie if your is supposed to be at a certain point and its not then load up the dyno to try and figure out what is going with the car...eg would be if your car is not reaching full boost, loading the dyno helps to build boost. Im by far no expert im only going off what ive seen and experienced.