Hey guys,



I've decided my wallet can't handle supporting 3 cars, a fiance, and all my other bills so I feel that I'm going to have to throw in the towel on my FD.



No photos current photos ATM, will take some if there is interest.



The car DOES have a GLASS Sunroof, seems to be a feature lots of people like.



Car was recently dyno tuned @ 11psi

Made 315rwhp on a Dyno Dynamics w/ 90+ ambient temps and 65% humidity, looking over the net I'm going to say the car probably puts about 350whp to the ground. We were going for 15psi but the ignition brokeup, I believe with an HKS Twinpower installed you'll easily boost to 15psi and really get some nice numbers (i was going to replace the coils and ignition harness since you can get them relatively cheap, but I'm pretty sure all it needs is an Ignition Amp)



Details:

94 Chaste White Touring 80k miles (gauge cluster was replaced, but carfax shows fairly consistent mileage, no jumps anywhere)

Originally auto, was converted professionally, only obvious sign is gauge cluster is from a '93



Goods:

Fresh Large Streetported IRP Motor

-3mm 89t2 rotors

-Low mileage omp

-brand new braided omp lines

-brand new OMP injectors

-Car was always premixed, 1oz per gallon of gas with TCW-3 2-Stroke oil

-High Temp Coolant hoses

-Plenty of heat shielding of vital lines near the turbo

-Oil Pan Stud Kit

T04Z Turbo Kit (t04z is currently being rebuilt)

-S/S Manifold

-Tial 46mm W/G

-Garrett version of T04Z

-4" K&N

-3" Downpipe

-Full straight exhaust, no cats, no emissions at all

-Apexi N1 Muffler

-PFS Large SMIC

-HKS SSQV BOV

Apexi PFC, Commander, Dataloggit

R1 Dual Oil Cooler Setup from CYM w/ less then 11k on it



KG Primary and Secondary rails

850/1600cc injectors

Aeromotive FPR

Braided lines from factory hardlines to the rails

Walbro pump in the tank



Forget the brand Front Strut Bar

RacingBeat Front Sway Bar

RacingBeat rear Sway Bar

RacingBeat Front Sway Bar Reinforcement Bar

RacingBeat Adjustable Front Sway Bar Links

Greddy/Trust Springs (JDM Only)

Koni (IIRC) Struts all around



ACT S/S Clutch

Transmission shifts and feels great, no grinding



7" Touchscreen Flip-Out DVD Headunit

Front Door speakers are pioneer i believe, someone removed bose tube and didnt add in new speakers in the rear



Stock wheels painted gloss black

Wider then stock (cant remember size off top of my head) tires with probably 90% life left



New Stock Starter

New Stock Alternator

New Stock Waterpump

New Stock Plug Wires

RX8 Shift **** (work at a mazda dealer, got it for free, feels nice when shifting so i used it)

No A/C

No P/S



Replica Mazdaspeed Carbon Fiber Hood

99-Spec Tails

H4 Converted Headlights



Rear hatch plastics recently purchased from a car with 12k miles



If i think of anything else I will post it later on.



Now to the bad side:



Paint is original and was 'heavily' keyed

Body is pretty straight except:

Small-ish dent near driver's taillight, should be easy to fix

Small dent on roof which bubbled and now has slight surface rust

Pass Fender looks like it fell onto the wheel somehow and I would rec. replacing it

Stock front bumper has paint chipping off bottom and has the classic wavy-ness



Seats are torn

Driver's door plastics are broken

Passenger's power window button clip is broken so it doesnt stay locked into handle

Steering wheel is peeling

Stock wing was broken off, holes in hatch were filled with the little plastic interior clips and sealed with silicone to prevent leakage

Small divot in middle rear of center console, possibly from someones elbow, could probably be fixed by removing console and popping it back out

Ignition switch is dirty which causes a click-click start sometimes and also seems to mess with the odometer LCD, sometimes the odometer will work fine for weeks, sometimes it will go out.

Needs R/F Upper control arm (balljoint)



I was looking for at least $14k, but am open to offers as I'm not sure how the market is these days.



I can get pics but figure I'd like to see if there's interest first.



Kevin.