Spitfire Swap (my first one)
#1
(apologies, I posted this in the wrong forum earlier)
Hi, I have a 1975 Triumph Spitfire I am comtemplating putting an 88 13B non turbo in it. I have the motor and tranny already.
I don't know much about fuel injection and even less about rotary engines and had some questions.
1) I let the motor sit for a little to long without turning it, maybe 6-8 months (was running good when I removed it from the junk rx7) I used a breaker bar to turn it, it was slightly hesitant then turned. I can now turn it with my hand. I have read that leaving these sitting too long makes the seals stick and ruins the motor. Anyone think I ruined it? Is there a way to tell if the seals are ruined without running the motor?
2) If I have not ruined the seals I need some type of computer system to run the motor, I have seen other people use Haltech systems to replace the stock computer. I am looking for the simplest (cheapest hopefully) system to run this, I have the entire wiring system from the 88 RX7 but it looks a little complex. I am not looking for a high HP motor, just a nice running one, I am using the stock spitfire rear end and don't want to blow it.
Well, thats the plan. I am a little scared to use the 13b since I am very unfamiliar with it and I have to do a little frame notching to get it to fit into the TIGHT spitfire frame.
Thanks in advance!
Hi, I have a 1975 Triumph Spitfire I am comtemplating putting an 88 13B non turbo in it. I have the motor and tranny already.
I don't know much about fuel injection and even less about rotary engines and had some questions.
1) I let the motor sit for a little to long without turning it, maybe 6-8 months (was running good when I removed it from the junk rx7) I used a breaker bar to turn it, it was slightly hesitant then turned. I can now turn it with my hand. I have read that leaving these sitting too long makes the seals stick and ruins the motor. Anyone think I ruined it? Is there a way to tell if the seals are ruined without running the motor?
2) If I have not ruined the seals I need some type of computer system to run the motor, I have seen other people use Haltech systems to replace the stock computer. I am looking for the simplest (cheapest hopefully) system to run this, I have the entire wiring system from the 88 RX7 but it looks a little complex. I am not looking for a high HP motor, just a nice running one, I am using the stock spitfire rear end and don't want to blow it.
Well, thats the plan. I am a little scared to use the 13b since I am very unfamiliar with it and I have to do a little frame notching to get it to fit into the TIGHT spitfire frame.
Thanks in advance!
#3
Originally Posted by spoliskey' post='854630' date='Jan 23 2007, 12:32 PM
(apologies, I posted this in the wrong forum earlier)
Hi, I have a 1975 Triumph Spitfire I am comtemplating putting an 88 13B non turbo in it. I have the motor and tranny already.
I don't know much about fuel injection and even less about rotary engines and had some questions.
1) I let the motor sit for a little to long without turning it, maybe 6-8 months (was running good when I removed it from the junk rx7) I used a breaker bar to turn it, it was slightly hesitant then turned. I can now turn it with my hand. I have read that leaving these sitting too long makes the seals stick and ruins the motor. Anyone think I ruined it? Is there a way to tell if the seals are ruined without running the motor?
2) If I have not ruined the seals I need some type of computer system to run the motor, I have seen other people use Haltech systems to replace the stock computer. I am looking for the simplest (cheapest hopefully) system to run this, I have the entire wiring system from the 88 RX7 but it looks a little complex. I am not looking for a high HP motor, just a nice running one, I am using the stock spitfire rear end and don't want to blow it.
Well, thats the plan. I am a little scared to use the 13b since I am very unfamiliar with it and I have to do a little frame notching to get it to fit into the TIGHT spitfire frame.
Thanks in advance!
A few years back a sports car mag did a start to finish rotary swap into a spitfire. I remember it was yellow but not the name of the mag. I will search whats left of my mind and get back to you.
Oops................ I got it. Grass roots motorsports ( http://www.grmotorsports.com/ )
Lynn E. Hanover
#5
Theres an issue of retro cars (issue 32) with a british racing green spitfire in it, its running a 1988 13b turbo with around 450bhp. The car shell is heavily modified though with a lot of chassis work and porche arches grafted onto the body to allow the larger independant rear suspension to fit.
#6
Originally Posted by spoliskey' post='854630' date='Jan 23 2007, 07:32 PM
(apologies, I posted this in the wrong forum earlier)
Hi, I have a 1975 Triumph Spitfire I am comtemplating putting an 88 13B non turbo in it. I have the motor and tranny already.
I don't know much about fuel injection and even less about rotary engines and had some questions.
1) I let the motor sit for a little to long without turning it, maybe 6-8 months (was running good when I removed it from the junk rx7) I used a breaker bar to turn it, it was slightly hesitant then turned. I can now turn it with my hand. I have read that leaving these sitting too long makes the seals stick and ruins the motor. Anyone think I ruined it? Is there a way to tell if the seals are ruined without running the motor?
2) If I have not ruined the seals I need some type of computer system to run the motor, I have seen other people use Haltech systems to replace the stock computer. I am looking for the simplest (cheapest hopefully) system to run this, I have the entire wiring system from the 88 RX7 but it looks a little complex. I am not looking for a high HP motor, just a nice running one, I am using the stock spitfire rear end and don't want to blow it.
Well, thats the plan. I am a little scared to use the 13b since I am very unfamiliar with it and I have to do a little frame notching to get it to fit into the TIGHT spitfire frame.
Thanks in advance!
You can do the old ATF trick to loosen up carbon buildup in the motor. A compression test will be the only real way to tell. I was going to use the stock wiring for my swap but it was brittle in some places are seemed to be connect all over the place. I wanted something simplier.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)