12a powered bradleygt2
#1
hello
im putting a 12a in my bradgt2
the 12a is suppose to only weigh 40 lbs more
than the bug motor,does it need a rear support?
the guy with the kelmark......do you have any pictures of the exhaust?
ive got room for the rad up front.
working on locating the iol cooler
will have to put electric fans on both.
by the way what is the alt. rated for on a 85 12a?
this seems like the way to go... did the research to build a bug motor to 150hp.....junked that idea and will pick up mt 12a on friday!!!!
all input will be appreciated
thanks
rob
im putting a 12a in my bradgt2
the 12a is suppose to only weigh 40 lbs more
than the bug motor,does it need a rear support?
the guy with the kelmark......do you have any pictures of the exhaust?
ive got room for the rad up front.
working on locating the iol cooler
will have to put electric fans on both.
by the way what is the alt. rated for on a 85 12a?
this seems like the way to go... did the research to build a bug motor to 150hp.....junked that idea and will pick up mt 12a on friday!!!!
all input will be appreciated
thanks
rob
#4
Hi
Left you an email. Unless your getting a good deal on a 12a, a 13b puts out more hp. If you don't want to run a ems(Haltech) or fuel injection(turbo), like I did you can put a 12a distributor on the 13b and run a sidedraft carb. Use a trans strap system on your transaxle, urethane mounts, beefed up trans mount and beef up the transaxle.(heavy duty side plates, super dif, 4-spyders, hardened keys, etc etc.) I went with bigger VW bus CVs. You can get the flanges to fit the bug trans and I'm running porsche 944 stub axles that fit bus CVs, but the "Thing" stub axles will do the same thing.(Check Hot VWs mag for all of the parts.) I went with swing-away mid-axles as they torque under load and take some of the strain off of the trans.
I had a "prowlers" tube beefup kit welded into the trailing arms and went with urethane bushings. I moved the torque tubes(VW suspension), up one outside spline to compinsate for the extra weight and to make it so I can put in bigger tires(you'll need them.)
I went to 4-wheel disc brakes which you can get from different companies(CB performance for one), and did not use the VW to Chev wheel adapters as a company that makes such adapters told me no way to use them. I got blank rotors with the brake kits and had them drilled for chev bolt pattern by a local machine shop. I went with an adjustable front end also.
Kennedy Engineered makes the engine adapter kit and will machine you a flywheel for the mazda that will use the VW starter. They also make beefed up clutch kits for this swap.(They have done this a lot with rotary engines to VWs) They recommend using electrical conduet for the water lines and rent a bender for the curves.
I machined my own oil cooler mounts, intercooler mounts and some blockoff plates for the engine. The exhaust is the real hard part as there is very little room for it. I went with 3" stainless steel from Burns Stainless(web site), which is a great little company(fast service), I used 90 degree bend and some straight pieces, ground them to fit one section at a time(having them welded as I went.) I have a Racing Beat turbo mid-muffler and a Supertrapp 3" in, 5" out(from from the summet racing catalog.)
I recommend getting the biggest radiator you can find and putting a large electric fan on it. An electric fan on the oil cooler isn't a bad idea also.
Don't neglect the shifter also. replace the shifter bushing in the tunnel, and urethane shifter couplings are good. Also a reverse lock out shifter with short throw is nice.
If you have any other questions email me anytime, as in the three years it took me to do this project, I believe I ran into just about every problem.
Dave Webster
Port Orchard, Wa.
wdwflash@aol.com
Left you an email. Unless your getting a good deal on a 12a, a 13b puts out more hp. If you don't want to run a ems(Haltech) or fuel injection(turbo), like I did you can put a 12a distributor on the 13b and run a sidedraft carb. Use a trans strap system on your transaxle, urethane mounts, beefed up trans mount and beef up the transaxle.(heavy duty side plates, super dif, 4-spyders, hardened keys, etc etc.) I went with bigger VW bus CVs. You can get the flanges to fit the bug trans and I'm running porsche 944 stub axles that fit bus CVs, but the "Thing" stub axles will do the same thing.(Check Hot VWs mag for all of the parts.) I went with swing-away mid-axles as they torque under load and take some of the strain off of the trans.
I had a "prowlers" tube beefup kit welded into the trailing arms and went with urethane bushings. I moved the torque tubes(VW suspension), up one outside spline to compinsate for the extra weight and to make it so I can put in bigger tires(you'll need them.)
I went to 4-wheel disc brakes which you can get from different companies(CB performance for one), and did not use the VW to Chev wheel adapters as a company that makes such adapters told me no way to use them. I got blank rotors with the brake kits and had them drilled for chev bolt pattern by a local machine shop. I went with an adjustable front end also.
Kennedy Engineered makes the engine adapter kit and will machine you a flywheel for the mazda that will use the VW starter. They also make beefed up clutch kits for this swap.(They have done this a lot with rotary engines to VWs) They recommend using electrical conduet for the water lines and rent a bender for the curves.
I machined my own oil cooler mounts, intercooler mounts and some blockoff plates for the engine. The exhaust is the real hard part as there is very little room for it. I went with 3" stainless steel from Burns Stainless(web site), which is a great little company(fast service), I used 90 degree bend and some straight pieces, ground them to fit one section at a time(having them welded as I went.) I have a Racing Beat turbo mid-muffler and a Supertrapp 3" in, 5" out(from from the summet racing catalog.)
I recommend getting the biggest radiator you can find and putting a large electric fan on it. An electric fan on the oil cooler isn't a bad idea also.
Don't neglect the shifter also. replace the shifter bushing in the tunnel, and urethane shifter couplings are good. Also a reverse lock out shifter with short throw is nice.
If you have any other questions email me anytime, as in the three years it took me to do this project, I believe I ran into just about every problem.
Dave Webster
Port Orchard, Wa.
wdwflash@aol.com
#5
I mentioned this in the Engine swaps section, but I'd like to add it here because it seems relevant.
I've got a baja that already has beefed up horns and trans mounts. It's got a bus trans and IRS with white CVs. I think the white ones are from a Porsche or are simply powder coated. I honestly have no idea. Anyway, It's also got a pushbar that is large enough to hold an REPU radiator so I think that's what I'm going to use. The rad will be in the back so I won't need to run cooling lines to the front. Oh, it also has urethane IRS bushings.
I'm thinking all I need is an engine, adaptor kit, exhaust parts to be welded together, radiator mounts and lines, oil cooler and lines, and uh, I think that's it!
check it out here: http://www.geocities.com/cd23c/cars.html#mbaja
I've got a baja that already has beefed up horns and trans mounts. It's got a bus trans and IRS with white CVs. I think the white ones are from a Porsche or are simply powder coated. I honestly have no idea. Anyway, It's also got a pushbar that is large enough to hold an REPU radiator so I think that's what I'm going to use. The rad will be in the back so I won't need to run cooling lines to the front. Oh, it also has urethane IRS bushings.
I'm thinking all I need is an engine, adaptor kit, exhaust parts to be welded together, radiator mounts and lines, oil cooler and lines, and uh, I think that's it!
check it out here: http://www.geocities.com/cd23c/cars.html#mbaja
#6
Hey come to my site so you could see my bro in law's 12a turbo Datsun.
tell me what you think www.2rotor.com please sign the guest book.
tell me what you think www.2rotor.com please sign the guest book.
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