I have a stud kit available now for any year 13B. The studs are made from aircraft quality forged steel. The threads are hot rolled, not cut. Then tensil strength is 195000 psi, and they are beyond a grade 8. I am not sure what they will be torqued to, as I don't have a set in yet, but 80-90 ft lbs is my guess. No maching is required, price is $320+ shipping.

 

I have 7 kits in stock for sale. I am currently building 2 motors of my own, and possibly 2 for other customers with this kit. I will have dyno time on them soon.

Torque specs are 120 ft #s.

 

sorry, off topic, but:

is that sideplate coated with something?

can you give details?

 

[quote name='Old Splatterhand' date='Aug 12 2005, 05:28 PM']sorry, off topic, but:

is that sideplate coated with something?

can you give details?


[/quote]

A new nitrided plate isn't it?

 

whoa...whats going on with the intake manifold flange/block in the back?

 

80-90Ft lbs You obviously have not torqued an engine down that tight before. Not a good idea for so many reason.







Torqueing down the engine that much will make the grooves arround the housings worse and unless you have a press fit your not going to stop the housing deflection during pre-ignition/poor burn.





So, what is the point of this?

 

What is the deal with that plate? It looks like it has one of those coatings on it for better lubrication.

 

[quote name='dantheman' date='Aug 12 2005, 08:37 AM']What is the deal with that plate? It looks like it has one of those coatings on it for better lubrication.


[/quote]



Yeah and if you notice the rotor is also coated.

 

I am guessing these will never be made for the 12a?

 

Maybe the studs are super coarse thread?



I agree with you. Just too much torque. Overheating crushes rotor housings with the stock bolts, and they are "only" torqued to 23-27lb-ft.



The theory is low torque so you don't kill housings, and many bolts so the engine stays together. 80-90lb-ft might be a good way of making 12A rotors work in a 13B.