ok heres the story , I built a 13b pp for my workmate the other week , put the rear counterweight on and fly wheel , tighten it up with a 54mm socket welded to a big bar, the guy i bought it off said to turn it half a turn after finger tight so i did , but before i put the motor into the car i gave it an extra turn just to make sure it was on tight , it went as far as the threads would let it, set timing and fired the beast up went great and left it idleing for 5-10 mins, next morning work mate wanted to drive it to work so he cranked it over a few times but on the last time it had seized. so we took the motor out took the flywheel of but couldnt get the counter weight off, gave it a couple of taps with the rubber mallet and the motor was turning over again,

the engine that i built is a 13b pp rx4/5 block with 20b rear main and stationary gear, this wouldnt add to the problem would it, or have i over tighten the fly wheel nut, seems to have 6 pops when i turn it over by hand.

can anyone point me in the right direction please , thanks

 

You built a 13B peripheral port motor and you couldn't figure out how to tighten the flywheel nut properly?

 

Man I was thinking the same thing.

 

^^^ but with volumes?

 

flywheels are on a taper fit, the nut is supost to be toqured to something along the lines of 265foot pound or there abouts as i cannot recall off the top of my head at the moment. sometimes with that much force on the counter weight nut combined with the taper fit the weight needs to be heated up slightly with map gas or a propain torch, not acedaline/oxagine,,,,,,,, thats too hot. anyways just warm it up some and with a puller inplace and tight hit the end of the puller nut wich usualy lets the counterweight loose. but ya i agree, built a pp and had trubble with the flywheel?????????? whats that all about. dont know how many rotas you built but even the unexperianced builder knows about the flywheel crap.

 

Well, you don't know stuff until you know it.



The nut being too tight is unlikely to cause a problem. So the engine seizing is probably not the result of the nut too tight or too loose.



I am not at all familier with the 20B stationary gear, so look for marks on that where the readius on the rear main can get too close to the bearing.



I would take the whole thing apart to check for a bit of a side seal broken off, or a spring adrift in there.

If there are two things wrong, and you only fix one, you will stil be screwed.



Put the puller (the real one from Mazda or Racing Beat) on the counterweight and take tension on it. Leave the nut in place but backed off about 1/8", so when the taper pops loose the counterweight and puller don't kill anyone. Heat the counterweight liberally.



Good luck.





Lynn E. Hanover



Picture is a 12A front iron with a steel tube through the direct oiling port for the front bearing.

 

Did you use the right End Spacer? What is your measurement for eshaft longitudinal play?

 

I have built reliable engines and have always claeranced all my work so it got me wandering what the problem really was, so when i had th motor on the table for examining i got a torch out and had a look thru all the ports and spark plug holes, after a few more turns had found a screw that had come out and was sitting in the exhaust port, i thought damn , but when inspecting it found no gouges or any damage to apex seals, turns out a screw had come loose that was holding the base of the k&n filter to the ida, the ida didnt have any ram tubes , i have now locktite the screws on and fired the beast up again , it was lucky the the engine didnt start when the screw had fallen in, and my workmate put the intake on too buy the way.

The engine seems to run all good , fired first pop, gona give it a compression test when its run in just to make sure its alright and gave him a warrenty on the engine too,



I hadnt used the big socket before on a big pipe bar so thats what made me think that i over tighten the flywheel nut, cause it produces good torque.

 

The ? is what the hell were you using before and why stray from it for a pipe and a welded socket?