oops, i meant L2 and T2

 

Have you checked the compression on the motor in both front and rear rotors? That will be a good indication of where you stand with the motor, if it's makin compression on all 3 faces on both rotors. Are you planning on using it as an N/A, or turbo, Carb or EFI, and what vehicle???

 

hey my plan is to do twin turbo and a carb, carb. because efi gets to be a rats nest for my ability level. the guy selling it and i checked the compression before i bought it and it seemed fine. does that mean i should be alright? oh yeah, i'm using this engine for a beetle. I figure if i can get 300hp out of it and put it in a 1600 lb car, i should be having a good time. you think 300hp is possible on a limited budget?

 

How did you check the compression with the motor out of the car? I want to do the same thing but don't know how'd i'd turn it over.

 

hey, the way i did it was with a manual compression gauge. It's made to fit into the spark plug holes. I just removed each plug one at a time and turned the motor with a breaker bar. with the rotary, i figured that the top plug for the front rotor and the top for the rear rotor is all that i needed to check. i had to turn the motor a few times before i got any compression. I guess it had to build up. when i checked both, the front was higher than the back which makes me think that mabye something in the back housing isn't making a seal. hopefully, someone is reading this with a little more experience with rotaries and will reply as this is the first time i've ever touched one.

 

You will need to check each face. A breaker bar is not sufficient, the engine needs to be turning at least 200rpm for a valid compression test.

 

yeah dude you need a rotary engine compression tool to get real readings. It also needs to spin at like 270 rpm. The mazda reader syncs with each side of a rotor so all the compression pulses dont just pump into one gauge like you did. The mazda one has three seperate screens for each face.