Na Exhaust Sleeves
#1
A tip for removing the rollpins securing these sleeves - use a thread tap in the hole of the pin. I used a 3mm tap directly in the hole (I broke my 6-32 tap, but maybe I should have cleaned the hole with a 7/64 drill first).
Clean the pin & give it a shot of WD40. Thread in a 12mm machine screw. Take a pair of side-cutters, grip under the head and lever the pin up (pushing or hammering down on the handles). Protect the housing surface you're bearing against with a scrap of metal or wood.
A question now I've got them out - this motor is getting a street port on the intake side. How much should I do on the exhaust side? Should I remove all of the diffuser vanes? Will it get a little, or a lot louder? Should I just grind out the center 'bump' of the diffuser, as it seems to be the bigest obstruction? Should I square up the radiused corners of the port a bit?
I have a header, hollow cat 'resonator', and a Trust 2 1/4" cat back exhaust. Not looking for 'max' power, but don't want to leave it on the table while the engine's apart either.
Thanks any and all,
Clean the pin & give it a shot of WD40. Thread in a 12mm machine screw. Take a pair of side-cutters, grip under the head and lever the pin up (pushing or hammering down on the handles). Protect the housing surface you're bearing against with a scrap of metal or wood.
A question now I've got them out - this motor is getting a street port on the intake side. How much should I do on the exhaust side? Should I remove all of the diffuser vanes? Will it get a little, or a lot louder? Should I just grind out the center 'bump' of the diffuser, as it seems to be the bigest obstruction? Should I square up the radiused corners of the port a bit?
I have a header, hollow cat 'resonator', and a Trust 2 1/4" cat back exhaust. Not looking for 'max' power, but don't want to leave it on the table while the engine's apart either.
Thanks any and all,
#2
Yes it will get a "little" louder but not by much. I swapped my na sleeves for some TII sleeves when I did my rebuild and street port (S4 NA). I also ground my exhaust port down a couple millimeters on the opening side but didn't mess with closing timing or port width. I ground the port so that it would flow smoothly into the sleeves. I kept the round exhaust port shape and didn't square it. I also did a medium / large street port (medium primary and secondary with large aux) and it runs fine. Opening up the exhaust port should create more top end power with less low end torque. I ported my engine for a pretty level torque curve so I could autocross the car, but if you want more of a drag race machine, you could open up the exhaust port a little more than I did.
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