I have some 20B questions for you guys...
#1
I posted this in the 20B section, but it was said that I might have more response from this section. Here it goes.
So I am going to be upgrading a car that has a 13B-RE to a 20B. I have built 2 other 20B engines before, so the engine building part isn't too big of a deal. My plans for the internal setup will mimic the setup that I used in the Falken Tire RX-7 and RX-8, which worked well for the engines longevity and performance. It's the related external things that I have some questions related to. Here is some quick info on the setup. The car will be turbo charged running between 20-22psi on a Turbonetics turbo, and it's a drift car. Transmission is sequential with the same bell housing to transmission bolt pattern as a GForce box. ECU is a Motec M800 with LS1 coils and all autosport connectors (my favorite)
I think that should be enough info for the following questions (if not, just let me know).
I am guessing that no one makes 20B dry sump oil pan plates, is this correct? If someone makes one, where are they available from? I am thinking something along the lines of 1/2" to 3/4" aluminum would be nice, and make the block nice and rigid.
I have read different things regarding running turbo's with dry sump. What is the best and most common way for the drain line setup (if they are the same thing)?
Does anyone make bell housing adapters to fit the GForce transmission bolt pattern? I am kinda running into a snag here. The tranny has a 29 spline input shaft, and it's not exactly common outside of the racing type that the transmission comes from. That being said, if I can work out a stock bell housing to fit up to the gearbox somehow, then I can run a rotary push type clutch and just have some disc's made in 29 spline. That would allow me to run the factory starter, and the stock sized flywheel. I have the option to run a Tilton setup, including bell housing, flywheel, clutch, and hydrolic release bearing setup, but it takes 10-12 weeks to make.
If I do indeed run the dry sump setup, what size of oil cooler is recommended? What size tank do most of you guys run or is recommended?
Does anyone sell the 20B exhaust flange in 321 stainless?
Are there any tips or tricks to this engine setup that anyone would like to recommend?
Thanks in advance guys.
So I am going to be upgrading a car that has a 13B-RE to a 20B. I have built 2 other 20B engines before, so the engine building part isn't too big of a deal. My plans for the internal setup will mimic the setup that I used in the Falken Tire RX-7 and RX-8, which worked well for the engines longevity and performance. It's the related external things that I have some questions related to. Here is some quick info on the setup. The car will be turbo charged running between 20-22psi on a Turbonetics turbo, and it's a drift car. Transmission is sequential with the same bell housing to transmission bolt pattern as a GForce box. ECU is a Motec M800 with LS1 coils and all autosport connectors (my favorite)
I think that should be enough info for the following questions (if not, just let me know).
I am guessing that no one makes 20B dry sump oil pan plates, is this correct? If someone makes one, where are they available from? I am thinking something along the lines of 1/2" to 3/4" aluminum would be nice, and make the block nice and rigid.
I have read different things regarding running turbo's with dry sump. What is the best and most common way for the drain line setup (if they are the same thing)?
Does anyone make bell housing adapters to fit the GForce transmission bolt pattern? I am kinda running into a snag here. The tranny has a 29 spline input shaft, and it's not exactly common outside of the racing type that the transmission comes from. That being said, if I can work out a stock bell housing to fit up to the gearbox somehow, then I can run a rotary push type clutch and just have some disc's made in 29 spline. That would allow me to run the factory starter, and the stock sized flywheel. I have the option to run a Tilton setup, including bell housing, flywheel, clutch, and hydrolic release bearing setup, but it takes 10-12 weeks to make.
If I do indeed run the dry sump setup, what size of oil cooler is recommended? What size tank do most of you guys run or is recommended?
Does anyone sell the 20B exhaust flange in 321 stainless?
Are there any tips or tricks to this engine setup that anyone would like to recommend?
Thanks in advance guys.
#2
- Try the Aussies or Kiwis for the dry sump plate. Xtreme Rotarys would be a good start. Wouldn't be hard to make one if you use the pan or gasket for a template.
- G-Force has a rotary application so they would be able to supply a bell housing. I'm sure CLR would also be able to come up with something for you.
- 1revvin7 from Turblown posted recently that they were going to start doing some 20B stuff. I know they use 321 pipe but not sure on the flanges. Opinions vary but mild steel is an excellent choice for flanges. I know you can get nice mild flanges from A-Spec.
- I'd do a 12 qt minimum on the sump. It's a dedicated drift car so you'll be able to find the room. No sense in going too small.
- Same with the coolers. Set yourself up with a good oil thermostat and you won't have to worry about temps too high or cold.
BTW, people are missing you at the shop!
- G-Force has a rotary application so they would be able to supply a bell housing. I'm sure CLR would also be able to come up with something for you.
- 1revvin7 from Turblown posted recently that they were going to start doing some 20B stuff. I know they use 321 pipe but not sure on the flanges. Opinions vary but mild steel is an excellent choice for flanges. I know you can get nice mild flanges from A-Spec.
- I'd do a 12 qt minimum on the sump. It's a dedicated drift car so you'll be able to find the room. No sense in going too small.
- Same with the coolers. Set yourself up with a good oil thermostat and you won't have to worry about temps too high or cold.
BTW, people are missing you at the shop!
#4
Thanks for the response guys. I did order 3 oil pan gaskets from Mazda, so provided they come in, I will probably just have a waterjet or CNC shop nearby cut one (or maybe a couple) out for me. I will also look into the Xtreme Rotaries avenue as well. Last time I checked they were redoing their site or something.
I didn't even think to talk to GForce about an adapter. I'll make that call in the morning when they wake up.
I'm down for Elliot to do my manifold, but I don't think he would want to do it for my asking price :P Revvin7, you have any nice flanges you wanna sell? How about some tension bolts?
Sounds about like what I had figured on the sump tank. I was looking at 4 gallon tanks at the PRI show in Dec and I really liked a couple that were between 4 and 5 gallons. I am going to talk more with Setrab about coolers. They seemed pretty happy to work with us on the car for this year.
Which people are missing me? Everyone quit after I left minus the other owner. I'll have my new setup going in about 2 weeks, in another part of the country. I'll actually be about 500 miles south east of you C.Ludwig
Thanks for the info guys, keep it coming. And please feel free to make any other suggestions you might come up with that might make this setup better or if I seem to be doing something counterproductive.
I didn't even think to talk to GForce about an adapter. I'll make that call in the morning when they wake up.
I'm down for Elliot to do my manifold, but I don't think he would want to do it for my asking price :P Revvin7, you have any nice flanges you wanna sell? How about some tension bolts?
Sounds about like what I had figured on the sump tank. I was looking at 4 gallon tanks at the PRI show in Dec and I really liked a couple that were between 4 and 5 gallons. I am going to talk more with Setrab about coolers. They seemed pretty happy to work with us on the car for this year.
Which people are missing me? Everyone quit after I left minus the other owner. I'll have my new setup going in about 2 weeks, in another part of the country. I'll actually be about 500 miles south east of you C.Ludwig
Thanks for the info guys, keep it coming. And please feel free to make any other suggestions you might come up with that might make this setup better or if I seem to be doing something counterproductive.
#5
Originally Posted by Dave G.' post='893321' date='Jan 30 2008, 07:23 PM
Which people are missing me? Everyone quit after I left minus the other owner. I'll have my new setup going in about 2 weeks, in another part of the country. I'll actually be about 500 miles south east of you C.Ludwig
I've had several people in So Cal asking for shop referrals. Used to recommend you all the time. Then I heard you had left and now people say they would of gone to SM but you're not there anymore.
Where you going to be located? Sounds like Atlanta maybe?
#6
Originally Posted by C. Ludwig' post='893322' date='Jan 31 2008, 12:42 AM
I've had several people in So Cal asking for shop referrals. Used to recommend you all the time. Then I heard you had left and now people say they would of gone to SM but you're not there anymore.
Where you going to be located? Sounds like Atlanta maybe?
Where you going to be located? Sounds like Atlanta maybe?
A bit closer to our friends at Rotor Sports Racing just outside of Charlotte. It's awesome how Motec is 15 minutes from the shop
#7
hey this is the guy i deal with here in NZ for all my rotary(20b) stuff steve is his name and hes not outragously over priced like the guys at kiwire, not saying there work is **** its probly top notch. but i prefer resinclair.
#8
Originally Posted by hsmidy' post='893335' date='Jan 31 2008, 06:33 AM
hey this is the guy i deal with here in NZ for all my rotary(20b) stuff steve is his name and hes not outragously over priced like the guys at kiwire, not saying there work is **** its probly top notch. but i prefer resinclair.
Cool, what stuff do they have that I need? The oil plate? Tranny adaptor? Do they have a website or email? Previous customers testimony?
#9
yeah sorry about that i was supose to put there website up in the last post
http://www.resinclair.co.nz/
mate they will be able to do almost anything, last time i went in they had 4 20b's in the build and countless 13bs etc
went in after a 20b flywheel and clutch setup he gave me 2 to choose from,friendly as and keen as to help ya out.
they would be in my books the biggest rotary shop in the south island (nz)
http://www.resinclair.co.nz/
mate they will be able to do almost anything, last time i went in they had 4 20b's in the build and countless 13bs etc
went in after a 20b flywheel and clutch setup he gave me 2 to choose from,friendly as and keen as to help ya out.
they would be in my books the biggest rotary shop in the south island (nz)
#10
Well my clutch setup isn't something that anyone really has. The tranny has a 29 spline input shaft, meaning that I have to run 29 spline clutch discs. The bell housing adaptor isn't going to be as easy as I thought either. I got the drawings from GForce for their adaptor, and the lower bolt holes are way too low because the GForce tranny's are about 6" taller than mine. Back to the drawing board there...
I sent them an email. They don't show anything on their website.
Anyone else have any other ideas or input on the other stuff?
I sent them an email. They don't show anything on their website.
Anyone else have any other ideas or input on the other stuff?