What do you think about changing the lubrication path

to instead flow thru the bottom of the housing to the oil filter and bypass the flow from the top down pin area near the oil filter neck?

 

ummm isn't the problem just in S4 plates. S5+ don't have that problem

 

yeah it didnt break from the oil going thru it, the leak is a symptom

 

Check this out.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/ind...howtopic=35844



Oil may have caused this gear crack, but it didn't cause your S4 plate to crack. Get an S5 plate.

 

...

Yes you can by pass the upper oil passage. Use steal braided hose from front plate to rear plate. Seen it done to reuse a cracked end plate. Take your plate and have it welded and get them to strengthen the hole area around the rear dowel pin area. You can make your S4 end plate stronger then a S5 end plate this way. Will try to find a pic of this and better info on how to. Once you strengthen this area your next weakest link ( apex seals, front end plate ) will break unless you tune better.

chuck

 

I have an aluminum block bolted on instead of the oil filter adapter. That block provides a location for an oil temp probe, oil pressure fitting, an oil in from an external pump fitting and an oil out for a dash 10 run up the the front iron where I oil directly into the lateral gallery to the front main bearing. So you could run without the dowel gallery if you want.



It seems to me that the dowel gallery is the front end of the oil run and will still leak unless you plug and "O" ring one of the dowels and plug the run up to the dowel gallery. You still have to feed the rear main and you are stuck with oil pressure at the crack site.



I have no idea how extensive the crack is, but I would grind out a 1/4" channel along the crack to just below the dowel "O" ring seat. Then warm up the casting and braze over the crack area. Including the "O" ring boss and a bit below.



Spot face the "O" ring seat and clean up the dowel hole. It should work just fine.



Stop doing what ever it was that made the thing crack.





Lynn E. Hanover

 

detonation

 

Hey, I was thinking about oiling the bearings from the front plate on my 20B because there is no room for a filter pedestal or anything at the rear plate. I have since figured out a way to run an oil line back there, but do you think it's necessary? Could I simply run the main oil return line to the front plate (filtered of course)?

 

well I opened the other half of the motor just now

and there was a broken apex seal in the front rotor that stayed in its groove thank god

no damage..................

 

This would also aid in cooling to the front rotor/stationary gear and the turbo since the oil doesn't have to flow through the housings.