Best Way To Build Up 200-215hp N/a
#1
Greetings all this is my first post here. I am new to the rotary world, but have experience wrenching and fabricating on conventional vehicles.
My goal is to build a naturally aspirated engine that makes 200-215 gross hp. It will have no smog restrictions. What is the most cost efficient way to achieve this? 12a, 13b, carbed or fuel injected?
I have no donor car/engine so that will effect price of engine build up, ie carbed I don't have to buy a pcm, harness, etc.. Not that I'm opposed to fuel injection, but install will be a little easier carbed too.
This will be going into a light weight 1969 vw beetle- just a little something to confuse my v8 friends with.
--Paul
My goal is to build a naturally aspirated engine that makes 200-215 gross hp. It will have no smog restrictions. What is the most cost efficient way to achieve this? 12a, 13b, carbed or fuel injected?
I have no donor car/engine so that will effect price of engine build up, ie carbed I don't have to buy a pcm, harness, etc.. Not that I'm opposed to fuel injection, but install will be a little easier carbed too.
This will be going into a light weight 1969 vw beetle- just a little something to confuse my v8 friends with.
--Paul
#2
215 at the flywheel? No prob. Go get yourselg a 81-84 12a out of an RX7. You can rebuild this with a large streetport and buy the RacingBeat Holley setup and you should be around that. Since your putting it in a VW, the exhaust will be built custom and it should be free flowing--Loud! Or you can use the 12a side,iron,housings and get all 13b internals incl. gsl-se rotor housings and build a 4-port 13b like mine. With a streetport you could get 250-260hp. With a bridgeport you might be looking at more like 260-280hp. This is just my opinion and some of the figures could be off a bit. I've never looked up or even cared about 12a specs soo...
#4
Thanks for the replies.
The turbo housings seem to be liked better, is that because they are easier to port? Say I get a fuel injected 13b with the turbo housing. How do I build it to make the power? Would i want to go with a bridge port, would a street port work? What kind of seals, or other internal mods? Any intake, exuast mods? Whats the proven ticket for 200-215 flywheel N/A hp, that will last for a little while with some street use?
Just trying to learn from the experience of others instead of learning the hard way.
Thanks
--Paul
The turbo housings seem to be liked better, is that because they are easier to port? Say I get a fuel injected 13b with the turbo housing. How do I build it to make the power? Would i want to go with a bridge port, would a street port work? What kind of seals, or other internal mods? Any intake, exuast mods? Whats the proven ticket for 200-215 flywheel N/A hp, that will last for a little while with some street use?
Just trying to learn from the experience of others instead of learning the hard way.
Thanks
--Paul
#7
there is no way you will get 250-260 hp with a streetport, too optimistic! I think you need to start with a 13B, streetport it and then slap a weber on it. That'll give you 200+hp. If you have lots of $$$ to spare, you can get a programmable efi, go through lots of tuning headaches and then pretty much arrive at the same power. But it'll look a lot cooler than having a carb.
#8
Originally Posted by Apex13B' date='Apr 26 2003, 06:21 PM
use the turbo housings with 6 port intermediate housings, that seems to be the hot setup
easiest i think would be a series 5 NA street ported with a holley. as far as FI, u can get a F9 haltech for controlling fuel and then using 1st gen ignition set-up.
if u go with a 4 port build, use all 3 turbo 2 iron plates(the center housing doesnt have the EGR) and rotor housings(if possible, they dont have the diffuers) with series 5 NA rotors.
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