O.K. guys if you have any good tips or tricks for assembling or disassembling, that may help everyone out post them here.





Don't chat in here, I'm trying to keep this a info. only post....thanks

 

when dissassembling the front cover, place the engine with the front cover facing up, and remove the Stack in order. Then take a zip tie and zip them together so that when you want to want to re assemble, they're in the exact order.



Got this trick from Dragon...

 

When putting the oil pump on, use super glue and super glue the oil pump sheer key in place so that it doesn't move.



Got this trick from Scott(head)

 

when finally putting on the oil pan onto the bottom of the engine, don't use the mazda gasket...use a 1/2" bead of silicone RTV on the oil pan. Play close attention to where the front cover is and where the motor mounts are...put a TON on those two particular areas.



Got this trick from IGY himself.

 

if you don't have a second person available when placing the intermidiate plate AND you are assembling on an engine stand; sit in a chair and use your knee to lift the eccentric shaft up the 1 1/2" required to tilt the plate in place. John

 

don't even think about taking apart your engine before you get the shop manual or the video. pay close attention to keeping things organized. many small parts can be mixed up and cause trouble. be thorough on cleaning and inspection. you wouldn't want to put a **** part in the engine which is the most important part of your car

 

^thats why I have a Mazda Seal case!

 

A good cheap, but effective tension bolt tip for you guy's.

The tension bolt are normally a potential weakness on a modified rotary engine (they tend to break under stress due to harmonic vibrations at high rpm's). To avoid this Mazda compeition sells a set modified with a rubber coating in the center of the bolt about 3 inches long designed to absorb the excess vibration. The problem is this set is very expensive and is cut into the center of the bolt, thus weaking the bolt slightly(which is just what we are trying to avoid. So I made my own using the exsisting bolts (which are plenty strong), and simply ran 3 inch tight fitting rubber hose down over the center section of each bolt to acheive the same result.



This set-up ultimitely works better than even the aftermarket item, because in my way the rubber is fitted around the outside diameter of the exsisting bolt, without machining into it at all, thus allowing the benefit of the rubber protection without weaking the bolt itself. The trick is finding the right size rubber hose because it has to be thin and tight around the bolt, to be able to fit correctly into the dole-pins on assembly.



Let me know what you think.

 

Couldn't you just apply like a silicon RTV or something to the bolt that would dampen the vibrations as well?

 

Yes. In the centre, for the length of about 1.5 to 2", you can apply a thin coat of any kind of RTV. It will dampen the vibration the bolt goes under at very high RPM's. The problem is the bolt will vibrate like a guitar string because it's only tight at the threadding and at the base of the bolt at the head. What happens is the bolt breaks at the threadding (just above it) and then works its way out, inducing a coolant leak as well as a funky cool 'event' if the flywheel smacks it.



B