E Shaft Pulley Bolt ?
#1
Im on the process of tearign down a 13b motor I have had for a while and Im trying to get the E shaft pulley Bolt out and it wont budge.
What methods have you guys used to get yours out during a rebuild, etc.
By the way I have the flywheel locked so it doesnt turn with the bolt.
I even tried to use the pneumatic air gun to remove it , still didnt work.
Help me out with soem advice guys.
What methods have you guys used to get yours out during a rebuild, etc.
By the way I have the flywheel locked so it doesnt turn with the bolt.
I even tried to use the pneumatic air gun to remove it , still didnt work.
Help me out with soem advice guys.
#2
Front or rear?
The main drive pulley bolt up front should come off fairly easy(85 foot pound aapprox)
The rear flywheel nut is a didifferenttory(360 foot pound). Requires a stationary motor a good long breaker bar (with a pipe slipped over if nessasary) and a good strong friend/relative.
PK797 NYC
The main drive pulley bolt up front should come off fairly easy(85 foot pound aapprox)
The rear flywheel nut is a didifferenttory(360 foot pound). Requires a stationary motor a good long breaker bar (with a pipe slipped over if nessasary) and a good strong friend/relative.
PK797 NYC
#3
Originally Posted by pk797' date='Oct 15 2003, 05:33 PM
Front or rear?
The main drive pulley bolt up front should come off fairly easy(85 foot pound aapprox)
The rear flywheel nut is a didifferenttory(360 foot pound). Requires a stationary motor a good long breaker bar (with a pipe slipped over if nessasary) and a good strong friend/relative.
PK797 NYC
The main drive pulley bolt up front should come off fairly easy(85 foot pound aapprox)
The rear flywheel nut is a didifferenttory(360 foot pound). Requires a stationary motor a good long breaker bar (with a pipe slipped over if nessasary) and a good strong friend/relative.
PK797 NYC
The front hub bolt can either be removed with the engine in the car, and the transmissions in gear, using a 19mm socket, breaker bar, and "cheater" (extension) pipe, or it can be removed with atleast a 700ft/lb impact gun depending on whether or not the bolt being removed was freshly installed (i.e. motor that's rebuilt often) or old (perhaps factory-new, 10+ years old).
B
#5
Originally Posted by 9Second7' date='Oct 15 2003, 06:56 PM
Thanks, Its a pain, Too bad I already took the engine out of the car so I cant keep it in gear,etc.
But im goignto go borrow my friend 3/4" impact gun tomorrow and try to break it open. Thanks for your help BDC.
But im goignto go borrow my friend 3/4" impact gun tomorrow and try to break it open. Thanks for your help BDC.
B
#7
Originally Posted by 9Second7' date='Oct 15 2003, 07:15 PM
Hopefully the 3/4" will do the job. I have tried taking it off with the 1/2" impact gun today and it didnt even budge and i set the pressure going into the gun at 110 PSI, I was surprised it didnt work.
B
#9
How come everyone else has all thes problems except me? I usually do this by myself with the engine on an engine stand, flywheel lock, 3/4" breaker bar, 19mm impact socket and a 4' pipe. Yes, the front is harder than the flywheel nut. Oh yeah I forgot to mention that I weigh 300lbs., one advantage to being a fatass.
#10
Originally Posted by IGY' date='Oct 16 2003, 02:53 PM
How come everyone else has all thes problems except me? I usually do this by myself with the engine on an engine stand, flywheel lock, 3/4" breaker bar, 19mm impact socket and a 4' pipe. Yes, the front is harder than the flywheel nut. Oh yeah I forgot to mention that I weigh 300lbs., one advantage to being a fatass.