I Need A Super Strong Upholstry Adhesive..
#1
Ok The bins I got out of my parts car look terrible.
The seats I now have are not much better.
Honestly my tan parts are near mint and these black parts look horrible.
So since I can always go back to tan, I wanna see if I can improve the black some first. I 'm gonna try to get some nice fake leather, suede or something like that material to redo the tranny tunnel cover and the bins in.
I need to know what the professional auto upholsters use for adhesives. I need something that won't gum back up when it gets hot.
I belive that i can get them to look pretty good.
But I dont wannt to mess with it if I cant find decent supplies.
So anyone have any suggestions?
The seats I now have are not much better.
Honestly my tan parts are near mint and these black parts look horrible.
So since I can always go back to tan, I wanna see if I can improve the black some first. I 'm gonna try to get some nice fake leather, suede or something like that material to redo the tranny tunnel cover and the bins in.
I need to know what the professional auto upholsters use for adhesives. I need something that won't gum back up when it gets hot.
I belive that i can get them to look pretty good.
But I dont wannt to mess with it if I cant find decent supplies.
So anyone have any suggestions?
#3
I suggest NOT to use any 3M crap. I tried the super strong **** they have and sun tested it. NEGATIVE DOT COM. Soon as it get's hot, it gets gooey, and all the hard work I did stretching it to fit was down the fuggin drain.
I tell you though... It looks SO CLEAN with leather. I almost **** when I put one of the side panels back in... GOD it looked good.
I think the only way you will be happy is if you use the same **** that the factory used... NO IDEA what it is though... Seems to be similar to liquid nails! Only a faster drying setup.
I still plan on doing the bins. So, if you find anyadhesive before I do HIT ME UP!!! I'll let you know if I find anything!
Jusitn
I tell you though... It looks SO CLEAN with leather. I almost **** when I put one of the side panels back in... GOD it looked good.
I think the only way you will be happy is if you use the same **** that the factory used... NO IDEA what it is though... Seems to be similar to liquid nails! Only a faster drying setup.
I still plan on doing the bins. So, if you find anyadhesive before I do HIT ME UP!!! I'll let you know if I find anything!
Jusitn
#5
Originally Posted by Cheers!' date='Jul 28 2003, 05:48 PM
dave u seem to have a lot of money, just take the seats to an upholestry shop and ask them to fix them for u.
If not get some nice recaros or sparco or maybe even corbeau...
If not get some nice recaros or sparco or maybe even corbeau...
If It were my daily driver which its not I might agree with you, but the Fd is just for kicks.
Anyway Justin sure thing. Thanks for the tip on the 3m. That was the direction i was heading towards. I visited and upholstry shop a while ago and the owner had mentioned an adhisve that needed to be sprayed by an air gun. Anyone ever heard of such a thing. He said he would sell me some so I guess I'll jsut pay him a visit..
I did have another though go through my brain today.
What about Line-X bed liner on the bins? I dont know how well it would adhere if it would at all, but the Line-X is really nice stuff. It's texture but not too much.
I am gonna look into that as well.
-Dave
#6
Originally Posted by Cheers!' date='Jul 28 2003, 05:48 PM
dave u seem to have a lot of money, just take the seats to an upholestry shop and ask them to fix them for u.
If not get some nice recaros or sparco or maybe even corbeau...
If not get some nice recaros or sparco or maybe even corbeau...
I have made my mind up to buy new seat skins from here AutoLeathers.com
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,176
From: S.w. Florida boring ass ft myers to be exact. where the old people come to die
i would think that a two part epoxy would probably be the best. i am not sure what kind but i would just call around and ask the local shope what they use and then just go buy it. i am like you dave...if i cant fix then welll i must not have really needed it in the first place.....oh yea hot glue and duct tape is where its at!
#8
no need for epoxies, get contact cement, but not the Wellwood **** they sell in Home Depot, go a shop and ask to buy some of thiers, make sure
they give you the explosion proof ****, my boss's son blew himself
up in a boat when the spark from a screw gun ignited the vapors
left from when he glued the **** down more then 2 hours prior.
He got some pretty nasty burns on alot of his body from it, was in the
hospital for a month or so.
Once again I forget the company we get it from, im going to say
Roberts or Robertson, its kind of hard to come by, check locally
and if you still cant locate it Ill get the place we order it from at
work, you might have to buy a 5 gallon pail though.
You dont HAVE to spray it, you can brush/roll it on.
they give you the explosion proof ****, my boss's son blew himself
up in a boat when the spark from a screw gun ignited the vapors
left from when he glued the **** down more then 2 hours prior.
He got some pretty nasty burns on alot of his body from it, was in the
hospital for a month or so.
Once again I forget the company we get it from, im going to say
Roberts or Robertson, its kind of hard to come by, check locally
and if you still cant locate it Ill get the place we order it from at
work, you might have to buy a 5 gallon pail though.
You dont HAVE to spray it, you can brush/roll it on.
#10
Conbond C-1535
here is one place you can get some:Glue it.com
otherwise do a search for Conbond, then make sure you get the C-1535, thats the non-flammable stuff. You still need to beware of the vapors, they will knock you
on your ***.
here is one place you can get some:Glue it.com
otherwise do a search for Conbond, then make sure you get the C-1535, thats the non-flammable stuff. You still need to beware of the vapors, they will knock you
on your ***.