3 years of collecting dust in the garage. I finally said F it... i'm going to get this thing going and I'm going to do it right. I pulled the blown engine and I trucked it off via CAA flat bed to a local rx7 enthuist for him to work his magic. He owns Classic Auto Body inc. Joe Phillips. Hopefully my car will once again shine in everyone's eyes.



List of things to do:



1.) transfer all accessories from old motor to new motor

2.) buy an extra oil pan gasket for baffle plate

3.) remove Crane boxes and LX92 coils and go back to stock

4.) send turbo out to get rebuilt and wastegate ported

5.) Buy a new rad

6.) Drill tap and helicoil the stupid theaded through hole on FD alternator as it's mangled bad

7.) New new banjo bolts for oil cooler lines all the hexes are rounded off

8.) Make some less ghetto block off plates

9.) Buy KYB AGX shocks and some Eibach ERS 2.5" springs for K2RD coilovers I just got

10.) Buy a nice set of Enkei RPF1 17x8+35, and 17x9+35 offset rims w/ Falken ST615s

11.) Repair hack wiring job from 6 years ago when I didn't know a thing about working on cars

12.) Repaint seat rails with some POR15 (rusty...)

13.) Replace diff bushings (rear 2) with Mazdacomp ones. The delrin mounts I made are ridiculous

14.) Buy a Spec Stage 1 clutch disc or ACT stage 1. I have a Stage 3 6 puck clutch and disc from Spec... It's too hard to drive with

15.) Buy new spark plug wires



Then I need to get car running.



The plan is to have a nice running stock'ish FC that will get used on sunny days. No more racing. No more track days. Just enjoy the car. I get my racing kicks from racing Cross Country Mountain bikes now.

 

A stockish resto eh??

Don't use gaskets for the baffle plate, it will leak like a sieve, use "the right stuff" sealant.. I have your rim choice sitting in my garage....

I recently put some effort into my car and got it out of its cocoon. It felt good to drive it after all these years.. I intended to take it to a track day the other day, the dyno computer was being a POS and soaked up all my tuning time, so I only got the fuel maps to 10 psi, then the injector duty warn came up, so I stopped it there.. Yeah sometimes a stock car would be alot less hassle.

 

Max,

You been out of the rotary scene for a bit too? I thought you were one of the most hardcore. Duly noted about the oil pan. Is it this?



http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotiv...asket_Maker.htm



Available at Canadian Tire? I have permatex Grey hi temp RTV sealant... But if you say that the "right stuff" is the way to go, that is what I'm going to use. I don't want to have to pull the engine to re seal the oil pan.



Ya I'm going back to stock. I found the car to be more fun when it was closer to stock. I'm going to get the Rtek S5TII 1.5 ECU upgrade once the car runs. I don't want to start messing around with so many variables before the engine runs. Else I'll be chasing endless circles trying to figure out which one of my F ups is causing the motor to not start.

 

yea dont ever use the oil pan gaskets on these cars. At the least rock silicone. For best results dimple the mating surfaces with a centerpunch and a hammer and then use silicone.



also congrats on your resto decision, i think thats the style im going for my next project, except maybe with a 20b under the hood, but sleeper stock style all around. My FC is almost coming out of hibernation and the FD is temporarily down till i finish the fuel system (got the new lines and filters today woo woo)



kevin.

 

except I pounded out all the sound deadening in the car a few years back... =(



now I need to think of how to get sound deadening material back in... I don't want to spend the big bucks that dynamat costs.

 

Yeah, work and having a kid really reduced my car time.. A 2 seater car becomes a ME car that has no function in a family of 3. I am actually getting deeper into it again, buying the bank breaking body kit, getting ready to buy and fit the car with an m800 system, stuff like that.. My car is far to "gone" in terms of mods to ever consider going back to stock, so I may as well go right to the edge and modernize it with traction control and stuff like that.

Yeah thats the stuff, it works very well, I wrote a little faq sometime ago on oil pan sealing thats on Teamfc3s. It has a few tricks to make the pan sealing last.

Its hard to stay at one point with these things... I already want to go back to the dyno to crank it up some more, and I only have been driving it again for the last 2 days..

 

I hear you on the street car.

I wanted a bigger turbo for my car, but driving it tonight I realize the roads will not always allow it- so why bother?

I did pretty good on the dyno with my current ****- think I just want to actually DRIVE the car for a bit.

 

my 20b was like that, it had like 8 aftermarket parts on it, wheels, ecu, mufflers, suspension, radiator....

 

The problem with a BIG turbo, is once you commit to building boost, its kinda all or none. You either ***** foot it, or just let it go. So you either crawl or break even highway speed limits from a standstill in a few seconds... The small turbos hit fast and hard, but didn't put out enough power to take you past the limits, it's somewhat controllable. That and blowing the tires off through the first 3 gears is kinda of a cop magnet, at this point in my life, I don't need stupid traffic tickets.

I am going R compound tire shopping today, the k104's are just not cutting it.

 

id go with the 2.0, it starts stock, but you can adjust if needed