Anyone replace wood flooring on stairs?
10-18-2010 | 03:03 PM
#1
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From: Tallahassee, FL
It looks like I'll be ripping up nasty 30-year-old carpet and putting down some type of wood floor. I've been researching online, and I think engineered plank is the best bet so far.
Solid wood is nice, but I've read that it's more likely to split, and is more prone to changes in humidity/moisture. I'm also thinking planks instead of whole pre-fab treads/risers, because I can get a tighter fit (to the wall and substrate), and if I mess up on I'm not out a whole $40 piece.
We have 3 flights, each with a landing halfway. I'm thinking ceramic tile for the landings. Not exactly a traditional method, I know, but we're a fan of the idea. Any reason not to?
Anyone done this? Any tips?
My goal of eliminating all carpet from the house is getting closer. So far we've replaced carpet with laminate floor in the 4 bedrooms, and replaced carpet with Spanish tile in the lower living area (upper living area is hardwood floor). Currently all steps (3 flights, 3 landings) are carpet, the top floor is carpet (single, small room), and a small area connecting 2 bedrooms and bathroom (a hallway I guess?) is carpet.
Solid wood is nice, but I've read that it's more likely to split, and is more prone to changes in humidity/moisture. I'm also thinking planks instead of whole pre-fab treads/risers, because I can get a tighter fit (to the wall and substrate), and if I mess up on I'm not out a whole $40 piece.
We have 3 flights, each with a landing halfway. I'm thinking ceramic tile for the landings. Not exactly a traditional method, I know, but we're a fan of the idea. Any reason not to?
Anyone done this? Any tips?
My goal of eliminating all carpet from the house is getting closer. So far we've replaced carpet with laminate floor in the 4 bedrooms, and replaced carpet with Spanish tile in the lower living area (upper living area is hardwood floor). Currently all steps (3 flights, 3 landings) are carpet, the top floor is carpet (single, small room), and a small area connecting 2 bedrooms and bathroom (a hallway I guess?) is carpet.
10-19-2010 | 11:07 AM
#5
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From: Tallahassee, FL
I've often wondered why homes don't have sprinkler systems. Many apartments do, but houses don't. Seems like it would be worth the up-front cost, if you could lower your insurance quite a bit.
10-19-2010 | 01:20 PM
#6
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From: VA
I'd like to offer something of value, but I have nothing. Seems like wood might ultimately be a better choice, since I don't know how you would edge a laminate on a stair tread. Buy hardwood treads and install them yourself? http://www.hardwoodstairtreads.com/index.html
I do like working in ceramic tile. I think if you are patient and have the few basic tools necessary, you can do work that is on a par with a professional installer. It'll just take you longer.
I do like working in ceramic tile. I think if you are patient and have the few basic tools necessary, you can do work that is on a par with a professional installer. It'll just take you longer.
10-19-2010 | 01:59 PM
#7
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From: Tallahassee, FL
The engineered flooring would install the same way solid wood; you have planks with tongue-and-groove, and a bull-nose piece that goes on the edge. Not the same as the fakey "laminate floor" stuff, although technically it does have a laminate surface (but it's real wood, not printed pattern).
I like the whole tread idea, they just cost more. If the buyer doesn't mind though, then that's fine with me! Much less labor that way.
I feel confident with the tile work. The Spanish tile didn't behave with spacers (corners are rounded, some are convex, some are concave, etc.), and I did it at a 45* angle, so it was quite a challenge. I look forward to working with perfectly square tiles in a rectangular space with nothing to cut around.
I like the whole tread idea, they just cost more. If the buyer doesn't mind though, then that's fine with me! Much less labor that way.
I feel confident with the tile work. The Spanish tile didn't behave with spacers (corners are rounded, some are convex, some are concave, etc.), and I did it at a 45* angle, so it was quite a challenge. I look forward to working with perfectly square tiles in a rectangular space with nothing to cut around.
10-20-2010 | 01:18 PM
#10
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From: Tallahassee, FL
Ok, final plan (as of today anyways):
Whole treads and risers, solid red oak, unfinished (we'll stain them ourselves), from these guys
treads: 48"x11.5"x1" (our steps are 44"x11.5")
risers: 48"x7.5"x.75"
36 of each, plus some extras for errors/finding right color
48"x3.5" landing treads, for the landings and top of each set of stairs, 6 of these
cove molding and shoe molding (no skirt molding a.k.a. stringers)
$99 flat fee for shipping orders over a $650
Total will be right at $2k. I haven't been able to find any place that could come close to beating that for whole treads/risers (and if I did, this place would match the price).
The treads are 1" thick, which would make the bottom step of each set or stairs taller than the rest. This could cause someone to trip coming down the stairs, not expecting the larger drop at the bottom. I plan to fix this, not by ripping up the construction treads and installing thinner ones, but by adding shims to 3-or-so steps leading to the bottom one. This guy describes it, and it sounds good to me:
Pre-finished, "retro" treads from stair-treads.com would cost nearly $2k more than what these will cost. The only advantages the retro-treads have are they're thinner, designed to replace carpet (without having to address the problem mentioned above); and they're prefinished. I have the experience finishing wood, and don't mind it if it means saving that much money.
Whole treads and risers, solid red oak, unfinished (we'll stain them ourselves), from these guys
treads: 48"x11.5"x1" (our steps are 44"x11.5")
risers: 48"x7.5"x.75"
36 of each, plus some extras for errors/finding right color
48"x3.5" landing treads, for the landings and top of each set of stairs, 6 of these
cove molding and shoe molding (no skirt molding a.k.a. stringers)
$99 flat fee for shipping orders over a $650
Total will be right at $2k. I haven't been able to find any place that could come close to beating that for whole treads/risers (and if I did, this place would match the price).
The treads are 1" thick, which would make the bottom step of each set or stairs taller than the rest. This could cause someone to trip coming down the stairs, not expecting the larger drop at the bottom. I plan to fix this, not by ripping up the construction treads and installing thinner ones, but by adding shims to 3-or-so steps leading to the bottom one. This guy describes it, and it sounds good to me:
One thing to consider is that adding 3/4" of hardwood will change the rise on your treads. The bottom one will become a tripping hazard. It will be taller than the others and particularly noticeable coming down the stairs.
Something I've done is to shim under the second, third, etc treads with 5/8", then 1/2", then 3/8", etc to "feather" the difference out. It isn't right, but the brain senses the steps being similar and reduces the tripping possibilities.
Something I've done is to shim under the second, third, etc treads with 5/8", then 1/2", then 3/8", etc to "feather" the difference out. It isn't right, but the brain senses the steps being similar and reduces the tripping possibilities.
Pre-finished, "retro" treads from stair-treads.com would cost nearly $2k more than what these will cost. The only advantages the retro-treads have are they're thinner, designed to replace carpet (without having to address the problem mentioned above); and they're prefinished. I have the experience finishing wood, and don't mind it if it means saving that much money.