Here is the link:



http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showthread.p...60870#post60870



PM me with any questions :bigok:

 

You should probably note that cross-drilling/slotting does not improve stopping distances. It is merely a "looks" mod.



Although at $289 it seems like a deal, new stock rotors were in the $300+ range if I remember correctly.

 

This from the FAQs at Brembo's website:



Why use drilled or slotted discs?

Drilling or slotting discs aids the disc in several ways:

The edges of the slots or holes continuously clean and refresh the pad surface as well as providing increased brake "bite". Additionally, they prevent gasses from collecting between the pad and disc interface.

The disc is lightened, thereby decreasing its rotational inertia.

Improved ventilation increases the disc's ability to shed heat, resulting in cooler operating temperatures



What are the advantages of drilled and slotted discs?

The main advantages of drilled and slotted discs are the same: increased brake "bite", and a continuous refreshing of the brake pad surface. Drilled discs have the additional advantage of being lighter and running cooler. However, there are certain pad materials that should not be used with a drilled disc.



Why are there so many holes in a cross-drilled disc?

The number of holes in a cross-drilled disc is part of the engineered system. Brembo has done extensive testing with regards to the number of holes, their size, their location and their chamfering. This attention to detail is what truly sets Brembo apart in the world of braking. The same attention to detail that is delivered to the Ferrari Formula One effort is a component of the high performance program. The number of holes in a disc is in part a function of the size of the disc and the internal venting (if it is a vented disc).

 

From StopTech.com: (StopTech Brake Whitepaper, very informative)





DRILLED VS SLOTTED ROTORS



For many years most racing rotors were drilled. There were two reasons - the holes gave the "fireband" boundary layer of gasses and particulate matter someplace to go and the edges of the holes gave the pad a better "bite".





Unfortunately the drilled holes also reduced the thermal capacity of the discs and served as very effective "stress raisers" significantly decreasing disc life. Improvements in friction materials have pretty much made the drilled rotor a thing of the past in racing. Most racing rotors currently feature a series of tangential slots or channels that serve the same purpose without the attendant disadvantages.





Also above on the same page:

3) Repeated hard stops require both effective heat transfer and adequate thermal storage capacity within the disc. The more disc surface area per unit mass and the greater and more efficient the mass flow of air over and through the disc, the faster the heat will be dissipated and the more efficient the entire system will be. At the same time, the brake discs must have enough thermal storage capacity to prevent distortion and/or cracking from thermal stress until the heat can be dissipated. This is not particularly important in a single stop but it is crucial in the case of repeated stops from high speed - whether racing, touring or towing.



Also check out this: Triple R Racing Brake page

He had his crossdrilled rotors crack to the point of failure after 3 track days.



Bottom line? For the street, yeah everything Brembo says is great. But on the track the only thing you can do with the discs that will result in cooler operating temps is to add more disc material (big brake system), precisely the opposite of what cross-drilling does.

 

Well, I can only share my experiences with you--two track events at Motorsports Ranch driving the **** out of the car, passing other stock suspension/brake FD on every straight. Most of my braking was from ~110mph at the end of the straight down to between 40 and 50 for the coming turns. The sessions were 20 to 30 minutes each, and I experienced absolutely no brake fade, while consistently braking one to two cones later than the stock-brake FDs. I was running EBC reds/greens, and after some investigation found that many of the other 7s were running upgraded pads as well, such as Hawks, Bonex, and EBC.



Rich

 

Could be you're just a better driver...



I ran the same pad configuration with cryo-frozen blanks last time I was at the track... Also had no problem with brake fade braking from 125 down to 30. And I could have *easily* locked up my brakes at 110 at the beginning of the second high-speed brake zone. Probably could have in the first zone as well, but I was paranoid and kept braking too early.



Unfortunately I won't be going with EBC Reds next time, I prefer my pads to last through at least 1/2 of a track day... grrr. Sucks when you have to just do ride-alongs the 2nd half of the day due to crappy pads...

 

Looks nice, have it for FD?

 

Sure do. Right now they don't come cadmium plated. We have them on sale for $249 plus shipping. Here is a link:



http://www.gothamracing.com/catalog/produc...products_id=555



Rich

 

I really like the cadmium plated one, I will wait. Maybe we can have a GB when you get them in.