Haltech E11
04-21-2003 | 01:26 AM
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,871
From: London, Ontario
OK
I'm at least half way done. Actually more than that. I spent a week labelling all the wires and determining what connections I need to make by comparing the stock wiring diagram and the E11 connections. Swapped out the relay that is wrong from the factory, after reviewing all the related posts on the Haltech Yahoo Group.
I've now finished all the wiring that needs to be done in the cabin. I've got 2 Supra pumps, and I don't think the 20 amp circuit Haltech provides for the pump is enough, so I'm using the secondary fuel pump output to run one pump through the relay I removed from the ECU power on circuit. I'm using the stock fuel pump fuse for that one, and the E11 circuit for the primary pump. Switched power is connected directly to the engine fuse circuit under the dash.
I'm using the 3 switches in the centre console of my Touring FD for auxilliary inputs. The rear defrost switch now toggles the anti-lag, the headlight washer switch now toggles the datalog on/off and the foglight switch now toggles from street to race maps. I'll be removing my foglights when I get around to it.
I cut into the wiring for the headlight washer to run my intercooler spray. I just have to take the other side of the relay signal to positive switched power and reroute the washer hoses to in front of my intercooler. (also buy sprayers and build ducting and a mount, later) I thought since the headlight system actually uses dual pumps it might work without buying a seperate pump, we'll see.
Since I was doing so much wiring, I decided to clean up the battery re-location wiring as well. I bought a 150 amp car stereo fuse and installed it above the battery in my passenger side storage compartment. This gave me some nice terminals to connect the pump and ECU power to. I also bought a gold plated negative battery terminal to match the positive I already had. Since the terminal has those little secondary connections at the back, I decided to ground the E11 directly to the battery, rather than through the chassis.
I've now got the engine bay wiring pulled through the firewall. Getting the stock harness out of the way was a real bitch, because I had to keep those couple wires in there that go to the speedometer sensor, dash temp sensor, etc. The harness was stuck together with what looked like silly putty to help keep water out. But it's done, and the grommet is back in the firewall. I just need to seal it up.
So. I need to do all the connections under the hood. Hopefully this will not take as long as the interior, as it should be easier to get at stuff. I need to finish re-wiring the fans as well. I had a 40 amp relay I'm using to run the fans on high speed only. Not a bad pace, considering I'm doing this in the underground parking at my apartment building and the security guard who worked from 11AM to 11PM all weekend wouldn't let me work on the car. I worked from 11:30 PM to 6:45AM on Saturday night, and about 5 hours on Friday night. I've never done this before, though I have become quite familiar with my car from previous modifications I've done.
I charged the battery a little and tried connecting to the ECU. SUCCESS!!! While of course I have no sensor input, I was able to communicate with the ECU, and the fuel pumps worked. In the quiet underground I can actually hear the fuel run back into the tank from the return line.
So, sometime this week I will be back at it, late at night when no one will complain that I am working on my car against condo rules. I need to pick up a 3bar MAP sensor, a 3-wire O2 sensor and a boost solenoid. I'm thinking I might buy one from an AVCR, as APEX-I lists them seperately in their catalogue. Kinda steep at $250 CDN, but it is awesome quality piece that I can thread AN lines into for my boost control system. I need a big solenoid with 2 wastegates!
later
I'm at least half way done. Actually more than that. I spent a week labelling all the wires and determining what connections I need to make by comparing the stock wiring diagram and the E11 connections. Swapped out the relay that is wrong from the factory, after reviewing all the related posts on the Haltech Yahoo Group.
I've now finished all the wiring that needs to be done in the cabin. I've got 2 Supra pumps, and I don't think the 20 amp circuit Haltech provides for the pump is enough, so I'm using the secondary fuel pump output to run one pump through the relay I removed from the ECU power on circuit. I'm using the stock fuel pump fuse for that one, and the E11 circuit for the primary pump. Switched power is connected directly to the engine fuse circuit under the dash.
I'm using the 3 switches in the centre console of my Touring FD for auxilliary inputs. The rear defrost switch now toggles the anti-lag, the headlight washer switch now toggles the datalog on/off and the foglight switch now toggles from street to race maps. I'll be removing my foglights when I get around to it.
Since I was doing so much wiring, I decided to clean up the battery re-location wiring as well. I bought a 150 amp car stereo fuse and installed it above the battery in my passenger side storage compartment. This gave me some nice terminals to connect the pump and ECU power to. I also bought a gold plated negative battery terminal to match the positive I already had. Since the terminal has those little secondary connections at the back, I decided to ground the E11 directly to the battery, rather than through the chassis.
I've now got the engine bay wiring pulled through the firewall. Getting the stock harness out of the way was a real bitch, because I had to keep those couple wires in there that go to the speedometer sensor, dash temp sensor, etc. The harness was stuck together with what looked like silly putty to help keep water out. But it's done, and the grommet is back in the firewall. I just need to seal it up.
So. I need to do all the connections under the hood. Hopefully this will not take as long as the interior, as it should be easier to get at stuff. I need to finish re-wiring the fans as well. I had a 40 amp relay I'm using to run the fans on high speed only. Not a bad pace, considering I'm doing this in the underground parking at my apartment building and the security guard who worked from 11AM to 11PM all weekend wouldn't let me work on the car.
I charged the battery a little and tried connecting to the ECU. SUCCESS!!! While of course I have no sensor input, I was able to communicate with the ECU, and the fuel pumps worked. In the quiet underground I can actually hear the fuel run back into the tank from the return line.
So, sometime this week I will be back at it, late at night when no one will complain that I am working on my car against condo rules.
later