3rd Generation Specific Talk about 3rd gen RX-7's here.

Turbo Characteristics

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Old 03-30-2004 | 12:53 PM
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alright here goes



"According to the official Mazda test procedure, boost should be as follows:

Drive to third gear with normal acceleration

Accelerate from 35 MPH at WOT until passing 4500 rpm

A slight and smooth increase in power should be felt at approximately 4500 rpm. This will be about 65 MPH..."



alright now my question, if you have added the following- dp, high flow cat, cat back, intake, resized wastegate orifice- would the 2nd turbo kick in still at 4500 or would the timing be off due to the upgrades. the reason that i am asking is that my 2nd turbo kicks in at around 5000 or so in third gear and is strong as hell so might i have a vaccum leak or is the timing off due to upgrades? i know people on this forum know a hell of a lot more than me, and if anyone with similar mods has the same characteristics or different?
Old 03-30-2004 | 01:16 PM
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are you running a boost controller?
Old 03-30-2004 | 01:31 PM
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Your transition should be at 4500 no matter what.. Unless you alter it with a PFC..



Someone correct me if I drank too much coffee..
Old 03-30-2004 | 01:55 PM
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unless he's running a boost controller t'd to the wastegate and precontrol.

edit: then the precontrol won't open till it feels full boost.
Old 03-30-2004 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Sinful7' date='Mar 30 2004, 12:55 PM
unless he's running a boost controller t'd to the wastegate and precontrol.

edit: then the precontrol won't open till it feels full boost.
Ah yes.. Roger that!
Old 03-30-2004 | 02:39 PM
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so chances are i may have a vaccum leak? anyone with similar setups have this problem?



i was going to hook up my profec b spec 2 this weekend but ran into the age old discussion of wastegate only or w/g and precontrol, which is the best way to plumb the b spec 2?i know alot of questions, sorry
Old 03-31-2004 | 02:14 AM
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Check the butterfly valve in the y-pipe. Mine was sticking and causing the transition to be late. I replaced it with one I bought used and it fixed the problem. To test, take the hose off the actuator and use pressure (or vacuum, I can't remember) to open the valve. The mechanism was sticking on mine, holding it up in the middle for a moment. It should open smoothly and quickly.



-Max
Old 03-31-2004 | 02:34 PM
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thanks ill have to try that this weekend n ill let you guys know if anything changes
Old 04-02-2004 | 09:39 PM
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IF I remember correct at startup the rod should move I think to closing point and st shut off it return's back to open position.
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