i got some more questions, and im now confused more than ever after reading for the last 2 hours on threads about this.



What weight should i use? I do not use my car in the winter months, temps are on average 50-100 degrees F. I plan on running the Royal Purple Synthetic in the crankcase. Is there a difference between wieghts between syn and dyno oil?

I plan on completely blocking off the OMP and running Premix. What kind/brand of premix do i need, what do u guys use? It seems im looking for ashless and TC-W3 certification and 1:100 to 1:128 ratio, or 1 oz per gallon, is this correct?



Fc3s-pro.com



" One of the big advantages to going with pre-mix is that this allows you to use synthetic engine motor oil inside the "crankcase". Synth oils would normally leave nasty deposits inside your engine (i.e. rotor housings) due to the higher "flash point" (vaporization temperature); we've seen Amsoil 20W50 specifically leave patches of deposits next to the spark plugs holes cause it doesn't burn very well; these deposits cause the apex seal to chatter over them, which causes havoc with sealing and compression between the rotor faces. With the synth oil burning problem out of the way, synth oil in the oil pan does with it does best - just lubricate the engine"

 

^^^^^^

 

I have a question: I am running Royal Purple no premix no problems do I really need premix????????





Since I have put in the Royal Purple.



I have Autocrossed 2 times and noticed engine temps were noticably lower after the runs and it cooled down quicker.



I ran a open track day and saw the engine temps rise but I was pushing it really hard for 30 mins at a time.

BTW - I saw a whopping 5 MPG!! I was really running hot and the Synth was probably helping keep the temps down to a non-concern level. My exhaust tip is now a different color from the open track day. I was shooting massive flames and my car doesn't usually do that.



I talked to my mechanic in detail about the virtues of synth. He told me not to put it in but I did anyway. I told him I did. He said its fine to use in a street car / race car w/ relatively stock engine. He also said it is chancy to use in a racing engine due to high RPM's and tolerances.



If and engine is seeing very high RPM's there is a chance that the "thinner" composition of the synth could allow the rotor to strike the housing during high RPM / heavy load situations.



I did read that there was a guy here using it in a Bridgeported engine though. So I wonder if this is true.



I have noticed my exhaust tip inside is white and ashy now. My plugs are fine tan and even. I wondered if the white ash is from the burnt synth.

 

i switched to mobil1 10w-30 when i first got my car back in august. I immediately noticed a smoother idle, and just an overall 'smoothness' while driving.



and, to me anyway, the car seemed quicker, but that could've just been my imagination/wishful thinking

 

Hey Max I just looked over at this thread for the first time in a while so if yoiu already answered my question, my apologies.



Where can I buy Royal Purple?





-Dave

 

Jegs sells it really cheap!!!

 

Viscosity has nothing to do about how fast the oil breaks down. Higher viscosity is harder to pump. This will leave the oil in contact with hot surfaces longer since it will flow slower. I prefer to keep the stock viscosity and oil flow rate as Mazda designed. I guess it depends on whether you've had the oil passeges ported...

 

i've used amsoil and loved it... now i'm trying out red line... i think the amsoil is better.. it was much smoother.

 

Buy Royal Purple directly from then on eBay. That's the cheapest way. Here's a link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=1872884986



Just type in Royal Purple into the eBay search...

 

I've been running 15w50 Mobil 1 in my TII for the past 30k. She loves it!



My vac reading at idle went up an inch and I got better mileage :bigok:





I've been thinking of switching to Redline 20w50, but not sure as its pricey.