Switched to Synthetic today
11-17-2002 | 01:48 AM
#62
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 10,906
From: Peoria, AZ
man im confused i don't know what i should run, i do know im gonna go premix. And that 100:1 ratio right? so how much per gallon? and whats the best type? im too damn tired to search. And could someone summ up the really which is better??
11-17-2002 | 08:41 AM
#63
Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 46
What about the cats? The other reason I always hear not to run synthetic is that it coats or plugs up the cats. Is there any truth to this, or is it just another one of those predictions of doom that spread when synthetics first came out? I tend to believe it's not true.
Cheers,
Cheers,
11-17-2002 | 09:52 AM
#64
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 24
1revvin7,
The only "question" about synthetics is its burning qualities.
Even people that do not like synthetics have said it's OK to use if you are going to premix. If you use premix, you are not injecting the oil into the combustion chambers.
The only "question" about synthetics is its burning qualities.
Even people that do not like synthetics have said it's OK to use if you are going to premix. If you use premix, you are not injecting the oil into the combustion chambers.
11-17-2002 | 10:12 AM
#65
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 73
I've been using Royal Purple in my car for a year or two with no problems. I have a "dry" single turbo (RX6), so the synth seems like a good way to protect it. I also do time trials on road racing tracks, so I was interested in the lower operating temps offered by synth. Extra power would be nice if the Royal Purple claims are true, but that isn't the primary reason I use it and I haven't done any before/after dyno testing.
Here's a bunch of comments on issues that have been voiced in this thread:
Yes, Mazda recommends against synth. There are some rumors that one synth didn't burn clean back in the day and they didn't want to single it out so they said no synths. All the synth oils have changed formulations over the years, and I haven't heard any convincing evidence of any of them being bad. There was another rumor that Mazda issued a statement in the last few years that said synth is okay for the rotary. I have no idea if either of these rumors is true, but I feel safe using it, so I don't have much motivation to chase them down. Lots of people have been using it in street and race cars for years and I have never seen a clear report that synth did anything bad. It does do good things like reduce wear and keep your oil system MUCH cleaner than dino oil (the difference is amazing).
If you have an old car, switching to synth may cuase oil leaks as the synth cleans away the junk that was sealing your engine before. Other than that, you should be able to switch back and forth with no major issues.
Cold-start wear is an issue to consider, so I recommend 10W-30 if you live somewhere cold (at least in the winter). 20W-50 is generally better oil, but it might cost a few ponies to get the extra protection. Mazda may recommend thinner oil to reduce parasitic losses and get better mileage numbers, which seems to be common in the auto industry (and understandably so). If you live somewhere warm, use 20W-50.
You can run synth oil for more miles than mineral (dino, conventional) oil, but it is a good idea to keep changing the filter at your normal interval. If you used to change the oil and filter every 1500 miles, maybe you would keep changing the filter at that interval and change the oil every 3000 miles. Its probably not a good idea to stretch it too far, as turbo rotaries have a lot of fuel dilution (10% of your oil is gas in 3000 miles -- that kind of thing).
One of the Royal Purple guys has been racing rotaries for years, which is nice for us because he uses the oil and would know if it caused any problems. Mobil 1 and Redline are some of the other synth oils that seem to be of good quality and have been used in rotaries by a lot of people.
-Max
Here's a bunch of comments on issues that have been voiced in this thread:
Yes, Mazda recommends against synth. There are some rumors that one synth didn't burn clean back in the day and they didn't want to single it out so they said no synths. All the synth oils have changed formulations over the years, and I haven't heard any convincing evidence of any of them being bad. There was another rumor that Mazda issued a statement in the last few years that said synth is okay for the rotary. I have no idea if either of these rumors is true, but I feel safe using it, so I don't have much motivation to chase them down. Lots of people have been using it in street and race cars for years and I have never seen a clear report that synth did anything bad. It does do good things like reduce wear and keep your oil system MUCH cleaner than dino oil (the difference is amazing).
If you have an old car, switching to synth may cuase oil leaks as the synth cleans away the junk that was sealing your engine before. Other than that, you should be able to switch back and forth with no major issues.
Cold-start wear is an issue to consider, so I recommend 10W-30 if you live somewhere cold (at least in the winter). 20W-50 is generally better oil, but it might cost a few ponies to get the extra protection. Mazda may recommend thinner oil to reduce parasitic losses and get better mileage numbers, which seems to be common in the auto industry (and understandably so). If you live somewhere warm, use 20W-50.
You can run synth oil for more miles than mineral (dino, conventional) oil, but it is a good idea to keep changing the filter at your normal interval. If you used to change the oil and filter every 1500 miles, maybe you would keep changing the filter at that interval and change the oil every 3000 miles. Its probably not a good idea to stretch it too far, as turbo rotaries have a lot of fuel dilution (10% of your oil is gas in 3000 miles -- that kind of thing).
One of the Royal Purple guys has been racing rotaries for years, which is nice for us because he uses the oil and would know if it caused any problems. Mobil 1 and Redline are some of the other synth oils that seem to be of good quality and have been used in rotaries by a lot of people.
-Max
11-17-2002 | 12:02 PM
#67
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 10,906
From: Peoria, AZ
Originally Posted by Stripgear' date='Nov 17 2002, 10:52 AM
1revvin7,
The only "question" about synthetics is its burning qualities.
Even people that do not like synthetics have said it's OK to use if you are going to premix. If you use premix, you are not injecting the oil into the combustion chambers.
The only "question" about synthetics is its burning qualities.
Even people that do not like synthetics have said it's OK to use if you are going to premix. If you use premix, you are not injecting the oil into the combustion chambers.
Synthetics are better for turbos though right? I think im just going to try synthetic maybe the Royal purple stuff.
11-17-2002 | 01:27 PM
#69
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 24
1revvin7,
First I agree that there is nothing wrong with synthetics. The point I was trying to make is that some people who are nervous about synthetics will run synthetics in the crankcase and premix with a good dino oil.
Since turbos run so hot synthetics offer better protection for turbos.
I read somewhere that shear strength for dino oil is about 500 psi, for sythetics it is 3000 psi.
First I agree that there is nothing wrong with synthetics. The point I was trying to make is that some people who are nervous about synthetics will run synthetics in the crankcase and premix with a good dino oil.
Since turbos run so hot synthetics offer better protection for turbos.
I read somewhere that shear strength for dino oil is about 500 psi, for sythetics it is 3000 psi.
11-17-2002 | 02:29 PM
#70
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 10,906
From: Peoria, AZ
Originally Posted by Stripgear' date='Nov 17 2002, 02:27 PM
1revvin7,
First I agree that there is nothing wrong with synthetics. The point I was trying to make is that some people who are nervous about synthetics will run synthetics in the crankcase and premix with a good dino oil.
Since turbos run so hot synthetics offer better protection for turbos.
I read somewhere that shear strength for dino oil is about 500 psi, for sythetics it is 3000 psi.
First I agree that there is nothing wrong with synthetics. The point I was trying to make is that some people who are nervous about synthetics will run synthetics in the crankcase and premix with a good dino oil.
Since turbos run so hot synthetics offer better protection for turbos.
I read somewhere that shear strength for dino oil is about 500 psi, for sythetics it is 3000 psi.