Hi, im hoping someone can help me please, ive recently bought a rx7 fd (1993) twin turbo, it wasnt running, but was said to be perfectly fine just needing an alternator, a only done 29k in very good condition, mint inside and just in need of a good mop. so i took it on as a project as i got it for a very good price, i have had a few problems such as flooding but had it running fine eventually after de-flooding etc, but yesterday i come to turn the car on and it fires goes upto 1000 revs (on tick over) then slowly dies, if i try to touch the accelerator then it dies again, i have thought it could be a vaccum/air leak? but im unsure?

any help would be appriciated!

 

Is the car still on the stock ECU? If so, an MOP issue (IIRC there are three different codes associated with the MOP) will put it into limp mode. In limp mode, timing is retarded and fuel is cut if anything BUT vacuum is seen at the manifold. No boost. The car will rev...but only very slowly.

 

Thanks for you reply mate, it still is on the stock ecu.. but i havent touhced anything, it was running fine the day before ( havent long got it running), apart from a backfire which i believe could be a blocked cat? but now i will start it, it will run for a second then stop, if i keep turning the key it will stay on a bit longer? do you have any idea what i would have to do to get it running properly again? sorry for all the questions, im trying to learn as i go along.. new to rotary lol!

thanks again leon

 

A plugged cat would be unusual with that few of miles, but probably not unheard of. If you think the cat is plugged, pull it off and check it. You should be able to look inside and see a honey-comb matrix and it shouldn't rattle.



I'm not sure about European spec FDs and if they had a CEL (Check Engine Light) on the dash. Why do you think the MOP is bad? Again, with a bad MOP and in 'limp mode', the car will start and idle normally. It just won't have any power. Even on level ground it would take you several blocks to get any speed up at all...but it will run. So you can "limp" home.



If it starts but won't stay running it sounds like a fuel issue. Either it's getting too much fuel (injectors) or inadequate fuel pressure from a bad fuel pump or a very badly plugged fuel filter maybe? Pull the plugs and take a look at them.



Have you downloaded a copy of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) yet? If not, that's where to start to go through some trouble-shooting.......



http://www.wrex-racing.com/web/fd/info.htm (very bottom, right side)

 

Thanks mate, i havet had chance yet (been working) but i will do tomoro and let you know how i get on with it,

that manual will be really helpfull as i havent been able to find one anywhere!

i havnt even drove the car yet, its like a project for me to do! cant wait to though!, i have heard mixed reviews about reliability!?



tanks again for you help, ill try get some pics up to show you aswel

 

Have you touched anything under the hood? I just want to make sure you haven't bumped a brittle vacume line or something. I had a problem similar to this one time and the vacume line to the boost sensor had popped off. The boost sensor is located on the fire wall on the driver side. This is probably not the case but it sounds like you have bad sensor of some sort.

 

mine does that occasionaly if i drive it on hot days. usually after a few trys it will stay running



if its not starting at all though or wont stay running you might need to reset the ECU. unplug the negative on the battery and hold the brake pedal down for about 30 seconds. then replug.



if that doesnt work then my other thought would be a lack of fuel, maybe check the fuel pressure. but im still new to the rotory game so i'm just tossing out ideas here.



(btw usually a vacuum leak will cause a car to idle high not stall unless its HUGE)