Timing Setup...continued
#1
Hi all,
Thanks to all those that replied to my last thread on this problem. Today i did the procedure with concerns to removing the CAS, aligning the groove and then marking up the gears as described in the last thread.
When i started the engine and checked the timing with the timing light , The grooves in the crank wheel did not line up with the pin...although i aligned these up before removed the CAS. I then set the timing in the correct way by turning the CAS until the groove and pin lined up. On driving the car , i have the same problem as before...which is hesitation and popping after 5 grand.
Should i have reset the timing, or should i have left it as i had set with the CAS corresponding with the Crank wheel grooves? Assuming that all that has been done is correct, what do you think the cause of this is?
Many thanks
John
Thanks to all those that replied to my last thread on this problem. Today i did the procedure with concerns to removing the CAS, aligning the groove and then marking up the gears as described in the last thread.
When i started the engine and checked the timing with the timing light , The grooves in the crank wheel did not line up with the pin...although i aligned these up before removed the CAS. I then set the timing in the correct way by turning the CAS until the groove and pin lined up. On driving the car , i have the same problem as before...which is hesitation and popping after 5 grand.
Should i have reset the timing, or should i have left it as i had set with the CAS corresponding with the Crank wheel grooves? Assuming that all that has been done is correct, what do you think the cause of this is?
Many thanks
John
#3
If you mean the green plug beside the Leáding coil pack...yes. I will turn the CAS back to the setting i had when the alignment was done. As in my eyes if the crank pulley grooves are lined up with the pin and the dot and groove on the CAS are set then this should bring the two together to work properly. Am i right?
John
John
#5
Hi,
I have done everything as described in the thread entitled Timing setup and problems. I did take out the CAS, removed the cover made a reference mark on one of the teeth so as to make sure that the groove and notch are still lined up when inserting the CAS back into its housing.
In my understanding, this process makes sure that when the yellow mark on the crank pulley is lined up with the pin, the CAS is then singing off the same song sheet...for want of a better word.
I do appreciate all the suggestions coming my way, i only want to cure this problem.
Many thanks,
John
I have done everything as described in the thread entitled Timing setup and problems. I did take out the CAS, removed the cover made a reference mark on one of the teeth so as to make sure that the groove and notch are still lined up when inserting the CAS back into its housing.
In my understanding, this process makes sure that when the yellow mark on the crank pulley is lined up with the pin, the CAS is then singing off the same song sheet...for want of a better word.
I do appreciate all the suggestions coming my way, i only want to cure this problem.
Many thanks,
John
#7
I did make the check with timing light and found that the marks were way off. On resetting the CAS as described before, idrove home to find that the initial problem still persisted. Now if the cause of this hassle is not the timing(new leads and plugs), what do you reckon it could be? Open for any suggestions
John
John
#8
don't the FD rotor housings have different spark plug positions?
You can't use your old FC rotor timing marks on the pulley as a reference if so, I recommend getting the racingbeat aluminum crank pulley which has the notches marked for 10 0 10 20, or mark your pulley with more options and set the timing to what an FD is supposed to have. Or just set it by ear.
I'm not positive but I do think the spark plugs moved around, from your S4 to the S6 there is likely a significant difference.
You can't use your old FC rotor timing marks on the pulley as a reference if so, I recommend getting the racingbeat aluminum crank pulley which has the notches marked for 10 0 10 20, or mark your pulley with more options and set the timing to what an FD is supposed to have. Or just set it by ear.
I'm not positive but I do think the spark plugs moved around, from your S4 to the S6 there is likely a significant difference.