Roll bar
#1
Just a pic of Project Zuki. Roll Bar is in and I finally got all my tools out of the car. Runs Strong. I wired my 6 ports fully open (for now). It pulls hard, My Speedo reads what seems like double so I'll have to change the speedodrive unit in the transmission.
The roll bar came in 6 pieces. It has to be cut/fitted and welded in the car. What a pain! But the good news is it's not going anywhere.
I still need the locker in the rearend and some paint on the body.
2nd Gen Powered
The roll bar came in 6 pieces. It has to be cut/fitted and welded in the car. What a pain! But the good news is it's not going anywhere.
I still need the locker in the rearend and some paint on the body.
2nd Gen Powered
#2
Just a question, what have you done with your air flow meter?
I can also see that you've probably removed your air pump. This is an '86, isn't it. It looks just like mine (the engine). Did you change anything when you removed the air pump or just removed it that's all? You just tied up the 6-port?
I can also see that you've probably removed your air pump. This is an '86, isn't it. It looks just like mine (the engine). Did you change anything when you removed the air pump or just removed it that's all? You just tied up the 6-port?
#4
The point is, 2100 lbs with smooth Rotary power and it will carry 4 people. Why be like every other Honda, RX-7, or Z28 out there... A unique ride speaks for itself. Just don't plan to beat this Suzuki at the next stoplight. I'd prefer a R100 but couldn't find one.
The roll bar is for safety. Take the stock 80 hp motor out and drop in a 13B with 170+hp & NOS and yes... I see a need for a roll bar. Look closely and you can see the NOS soleniods in the picture.
The motor is out of a 87-88 (I forget), Yes Airpump removed, ACV removed, EGR removed, Racing Beat Header with 2-1/2" exhaust all the way out the back. The air meter was removed as this motor is run from a Haltech E6K (uses a MAP sensor instead).
As for the wheels... There isn't a large selection of 5x 5-1/2 bolt pattern wheels out there... besides I didn't have a bankroll to spend on wheels. This Zuki sits on 15x8" wheels with 195/50-15's at the front and 225/50-15's out back.
So laugh or Dis all you want.... Cause you can bet I am laughing at the surprised look of those left behind.
The roll bar is for safety. Take the stock 80 hp motor out and drop in a 13B with 170+hp & NOS and yes... I see a need for a roll bar. Look closely and you can see the NOS soleniods in the picture.
The motor is out of a 87-88 (I forget), Yes Airpump removed, ACV removed, EGR removed, Racing Beat Header with 2-1/2" exhaust all the way out the back. The air meter was removed as this motor is run from a Haltech E6K (uses a MAP sensor instead).
As for the wheels... There isn't a large selection of 5x 5-1/2 bolt pattern wheels out there... besides I didn't have a bankroll to spend on wheels. This Zuki sits on 15x8" wheels with 195/50-15's at the front and 225/50-15's out back.
So laugh or Dis all you want.... Cause you can bet I am laughing at the surprised look of those left behind.
#6
Anyone who would "laugh" at the project that was undertaken here, and achieved, is pretty ignorant in my opinion. Sorry if the words seem a little harsh, but that swap looks like it came out of the factory, and its not like he could buy a "kit" to do it, good work I say! Makes it all the sweeter with those steel wheels and the roll bar. Send it here to New York, Ill paint it.
#7
Originally Posted by Rob x-7' date='April 20 2002,15:07
Anyone who would "laugh" at the project that was undertaken here, and achieved, is pretty ignorant in my opinion. Sorry if the words seem a little harsh, but that swap looks like it came out of the factory, and its not like he could buy a "kit" to do it, good work I say! Makes it all the sweeter with those steel wheels and the roll bar. Send it here to New York, Ill paint it.
#9
whether i sell it now or sell it in six months i'm still gonna get the same amount of money for it. i might just wind up keeping it. i have to get the turbo rebuilt but besides that its strong back to the task at hand you good at fixing guard rail damage
#10
I forget how bad that damage is, might be better to put a used 1/4 on there. I am way to busy right now for a paint job requiring body work, so either get the body done, and Ill prime and paint it- remember- sanding the car for primer, and sanding the primer is the most important step in a quality paint job, a straight car will still look like crap with bad prep work. I do paint and body/glass work on boats, and right now is a incredibly busy time for us, I still have to paint the other aluminum hood I have! ???