I GOTTA 90 GTU IT HAS 75 COMPRESSION IN THE FRONT AND 65 IN THE REAR

I WAS WONDERIN WHAT WOULD B BEST SHOULD I REBUILD IT IF SO WHERE WOULD B A GOOD PLACE TO GET A REBUILD KIT WHEN I WENT TO GET THE COMPRESSION DONE THEY SAID I NEEDED A NEW BELL HOUSING IS THIS NECESSARY TO BOOST THE COMPRESSION OR JUS GET THE REBUILD KIT



I WAS ALSO THINKIN BOUT GETTING A JAP TII MOTOR TAKE OFF THE TURBO AND SWITCHING MY INTAKE MANI CUZ I WANNA KEEP IT N/A SO I CAN KEEP IT RELIABLE AND I CAN HAVE STRONG INTERNALS SHOULD I GO THIS DIRECTION THE MOTORS ABOUT 50K MILES ON IT BUT I DONT SEE THE COMPRESSION TILL I GET IT



WHICH WOULD B THE BEST WAY TO GO

 

the best way to go would be turning caps lock off and asking like a human, dont buy a jspec motor to rip off the turbo... im not even going to get into details haha im sure someone else would like to do that

 

my fault bout the caps



why would it b bad to rip off the turbo i would swich the mani, wouldnt that put less stress on the engine plus the internals are stronger

 

4 port and 6 port and lower compression

 

Turbo II engine will not run right without the turbo. It has lower compression than the regular N/A motor. You would have very little power.



if you want to get a new engine, find a wrecked N/A and get the engine from that, or find someone selling a N/A motor.



Rebuild kits are avaliable from many places, do some searching and you will find everything you need to know.



http://www.speedmachineperformance.com/home



they have rebuild kits



atkins rotary also sells them.



rotary aviation is another possibility

 

but wouldnt changing the rotors from the na bring back the compression with the beefed internals

jus wonderin if i could do this, then juice the hell out of it keepin it na

 

that wouldn't be any different than a N/A motor, other than the fact that you would have hell getting the intake and fuel system to work right.



if you want natural asperation, you just need to get a N/A motor. no practical way around it. N/A motor is just as strong as a turbo motor.

 

that wouldn't be any different than a N/A motor, other than the fact that you would have hell getting the intake and fuel system to work right.



turbo II internals are no stronger than N/A internals.



if you want natural asperation, you just need to get a N/A motor. no practical way around it. N/A motor is just as strong as a turbo motor.

 

thanx fo the info ima jus wait for my chek to come then swap it out but i still need to do sum minor work to the body cuz the motor still runs jus scared to redline it cuz of the compression



any ideas wat i should do next cuz i wanna get into the scca



jus got my pix up



at bottom

 

The only thing I can think of that would be stronger on a turbo engine as opposed to a NA are the stronger rear plates and hardened gears of the kouki turbos.



Other than those I think there are very few differences in the fortitude of the internals. The housings are external, but are the plates external or internal parts?