Rear Camber
12-24-2004 | 07:14 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 64
From: Washington, MO 63090
Hey I just replaced all for tires on my S4 vert about 6 months ago. I had it aligned twice and I still ate through the tread on the inside of both rear tires ,outside tread has 6/32 inside has steel belts, no feathered edge and the toe is right on the alignement machine. The inside eged of the right rear get to 180° just from driving in a straight line for about 10 miles. Camber has to be off but what kind of adjustments can be made to correct the -camber? Any insight would be great! Thanks, Jack
12-24-2004 | 08:22 PM
#2
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 16
If you can't custom make something, pick up a adjustable camber link from a place like mazdatrix.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/h6_86-92.htm
(near the bottom of the page)
http://www.mazdatrix.com/h6_86-92.htm
(near the bottom of the page)
12-26-2004 | 05:25 PM
#3
Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 88
First off, to have that much camber, there must be something worn/broken in rear suspension. Could be the end links as they have a much greater tendency to wear on verts than coupes....Probably weight. I would by the individual adjustable links. Trick pieces and each wheel would be able to be adjusted. I have them on my TII. great quality.
I would also get another alignment shop to do my work. If they aligned it twice and adjusted only the toe and said nothing to you about the camber being out, they are useless.
I would also get another alignment shop to do my work. If they aligned it twice and adjusted only the toe and said nothing to you about the camber being out, they are useless.
12-26-2004 | 11:58 PM
#4
Junior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 20
From: Mesa, Az
I was running into the same problem, I did several things.
1. I installed toe eleminators because setting still on the alignment machine it was fine but when I drove it acted up especially in the rain and during hard accelerations. I also was not getting any feathering of the tread.
2. The long verticle rod that goes from the rear sub frame to the under side of the car, I slotted the bottom bolt hole to the bottom and raised the subframe, this inturn will change your camber and alignment on the rear. I used some thick washers to hold and I am running 300 hp and 300+ tq and it has not moved.
3. I am now installing neoprene bushings and OBX camber bolts. This should get my tires standing back up where they belong.
To me the only people that need that much camber are hard core auto x'rs other than that there is no need for it.
Later
1. I installed toe eleminators because setting still on the alignment machine it was fine but when I drove it acted up especially in the rain and during hard accelerations. I also was not getting any feathering of the tread.
2. The long verticle rod that goes from the rear sub frame to the under side of the car, I slotted the bottom bolt hole to the bottom and raised the subframe, this inturn will change your camber and alignment on the rear. I used some thick washers to hold and I am running 300 hp and 300+ tq and it has not moved.
3. I am now installing neoprene bushings and OBX camber bolts. This should get my tires standing back up where they belong.
To me the only people that need that much camber are hard core auto x'rs other than that there is no need for it.
Later
12-28-2004 | 07:40 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 64
From: Washington, MO 63090
Originally Posted by RX8SS' date='Dec 26 2004, 08:58 PM
I was running into the same problem, I did several things.
1. I installed toe eleminators because setting still on the alignment machine it was fine but when I drove it acted up especially in the rain and during hard accelerations. I also was not getting any feathering of the tread.
2. The long verticle rod that goes from the rear sub frame to the under side of the car, I slotted the bottom bolt hole to the bottom and raised the subframe, this inturn will change your camber and alignment on the rear. I used some thick washers to hold and I am running 300 hp and 300+ tq and it has not moved.
3. I am now installing neoprene bushings and OBX camber bolts. This should get my tires standing back up where they belong.
To me the only people that need that much camber are hard core auto x'rs other than that there is no need for it.
Later
1. I installed toe eleminators because setting still on the alignment machine it was fine but when I drove it acted up especially in the rain and during hard accelerations. I also was not getting any feathering of the tread.
2. The long verticle rod that goes from the rear sub frame to the under side of the car, I slotted the bottom bolt hole to the bottom and raised the subframe, this inturn will change your camber and alignment on the rear. I used some thick washers to hold and I am running 300 hp and 300+ tq and it has not moved.
3. I am now installing neoprene bushings and OBX camber bolts. This should get my tires standing back up where they belong.
To me the only people that need that much camber are hard core auto x'rs other than that there is no need for it.
Later
What does this mean? go into alittle more detail about this possibility please. Thanks, Jack
12-30-2004 | 09:50 PM
#6
Junior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 20
From: Mesa, Az
On the back side of the rear cradle near the center there is a long rod that goes up to the bottom of the car from the cradle. Where the bolt goes through the cradle that attaches the rod I slotted the bolt hole down and then jacked the cradle up so the bolt is now at the bottom of the slot. I uses some larger washers to grip the cradle. I will try to get some pics of my set up.
Later
Later
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