Anyone have any experience or tried driving the Sport/Strip Heavy Duty (HD) Clutch Disc?



ref: http://racingbeat.com/resultset.asp?PartNumber=12508



I have a Spec Stage III setup currently. It's a upgraded pressure plate providing about 33% increase in clamp force, a fidanza 8.8 lbs aluminum flywheel, and a 6 puck copper ceramic sprung clutch disc. My experience is that it's amazing for track use. Absolutely horrible for stop and go / traffic light driving. I'm thinking of switching out the disc for the racing beat unit.



Anyone care to comment how good this racing beat one is compared to say ACT, or Stock Mazda?

 

I have this clutch in my n/a, with the upgraded pressure plate, and the lightweight aluminum racing beat flywheel. Not sure how well it holds power, but it's easy to drive with in traffic every day. Feels real good, easy modulation despite the small friction zone.

 

I have the RB S/S HD disk and PP for my TII. I have logged about 10k miles on this setup, and have no long term use complaints. Grips very well, and engagement is relatively smooth. Overall, I like it. I used to have the ACT S/S HD setup on my N/A, and I I think I like the way the RB feels a little better. Although, the ACT was a great clutch as well.



My only problem with the RB was the break-in period. During the first 500 or so miles on that clutch. During engagement, it shuddered really badly. Like I said, this shuddering dissapeard after about 500 miles, and has not resurfaced since.

-a

 

You have to break in all clutches.



Ive had a centerforce dual friction for over a year now, on my na, I love it the pedal is light than stock at idle but when the rpms are up it gets pretty heavy.

 

I had the centre force. It was nice feeling nice driving clutch. But wore out too fast

 

lol i wonder how my spec stage 4 is gonna feel, lol.



kevin.

 

All they are is regular ClutchNet clutches.



Just buy a ClutchNet and save yourself some money

 

It will be fine as long as you dont' have stop signs / red lights every 600 meters and bumper to bumper traffic. The hardest thing I found to do was making left hand turns in heavy traffic where you had to be quick with the clutch. I would blip the throttle from idle to 1200 while taking up the clutch a bit. Until the car rolled a bit. Then I would be able to engaged the clutch quickly and gas it to finish the turn... I hated doing that.



So i'm going to get a normal clutch.

 

Not much of a savings. I did a quick search of Clutchnet. It looks like their medium line (yellow app) goes for 145. Racingbeat wants 150 for theirs. Personally I would pay the extra 5 and go with a highly recognized brand who knows a lot about rotaries rather than some big warehouse place who just ships clutches out.