Oil and Oil Filter
01-07-2006 | 04:23 PM
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,068
From: Kincardine, Ontario Canada yeah Canada bitches
Most people seem to use Castrol GTX 20w50 for the summer and 10w30 in the winter. Some people recommend that the Mazda filter is the best, but I use the most expesnive Fram I can buy sisnce the last filter I use to use religously was discontinued, Generally one with a Gauze filter media is the best.
01-07-2006 | 05:05 PM
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,502
From: Canada
I wouldn't run 10 weight in the winter. Mazda recommends 10 weight of the car sees 0 fahrenheit or lower, so yeah, use it if your car is going to see negative 18 C ambient temp (not windchill). Otherwise, always use 20w50, and always use a mineral oil, nothing synthetic. Rotary engines burn oil on purpose, running synthetic is debateable...
I never had a slow crank problem running 20 weight in the winter.
I cut up a Mazda Canada OEM filter and found it was like fram, which is a garbage filter.. I never cut up a fram top of the line filter but on an oil filter study they weren't any better other than some flashy packaging.. I would hope fram's most expensive stuff had a proper element, not some mass production quantity-over-quality bullshit.
Purolator filters are top notch, at a general auto store, the valvoline filters are made by purolator. Kralinator is another good filter. Fleetguard is good (if you can find one for a mazda application) as well..
Basically what makes or breaks a filter is cheap plastic drainbacks and paper and glue versus actual steel ended filter elements, etc.
The Mazda Canada OEM filter was glued together, and looked like a fifth grader cut the end caps of the element out of construction paper. I stopped using those religiously..
If you are at the store and can't pick between two brands, go with the one that's a little bit heavier, because chances are it has a quality element, not junk.
I never had a slow crank problem running 20 weight in the winter.
I cut up a Mazda Canada OEM filter and found it was like fram, which is a garbage filter.. I never cut up a fram top of the line filter but on an oil filter study they weren't any better other than some flashy packaging.. I would hope fram's most expensive stuff had a proper element, not some mass production quantity-over-quality bullshit.
Purolator filters are top notch, at a general auto store, the valvoline filters are made by purolator. Kralinator is another good filter. Fleetguard is good (if you can find one for a mazda application) as well..
Basically what makes or breaks a filter is cheap plastic drainbacks and paper and glue versus actual steel ended filter elements, etc.
The Mazda Canada OEM filter was glued together, and looked like a fifth grader cut the end caps of the element out of construction paper. I stopped using those religiously..
If you are at the store and can't pick between two brands, go with the one that's a little bit heavier, because chances are it has a quality element, not junk.
01-07-2006 | 05:53 PM
#5
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 22,465
From: California
Originally Posted by ColinRX7' post='792676' date='Jan 7 2006, 02:05 PM
I wouldn't run 10 weight in the winter. Mazda recommends 10 weight of the car sees 0 fahrenheit or lower, so yeah, use it if your car is going to see negative 18 C ambient temp (not windchill). Otherwise, always use 20w50, and always use a mineral oil, nothing synthetic. Rotary engines burn oil on purpose, running synthetic is debateable...
I never had a slow crank problem running 20 weight in the winter.
I cut up a Mazda Canada OEM filter and found it was like fram, which is a garbage filter.. I never cut up a fram top of the line filter but on an oil filter study they weren't any better other than some flashy packaging.. I would hope fram's most expensive stuff had a proper element, not some mass production quantity-over-quality bullshit.
Purolator filters are top notch, at a general auto store, the valvoline filters are made by purolator. Kralinator is another good filter. Fleetguard is good (if you can find one for a mazda application) as well..
Basically what makes or breaks a filter is cheap plastic drainbacks and paper and glue versus actual steel ended filter elements, etc.
The Mazda Canada OEM filter was glued together, and looked like a fifth grader cut the end caps of the element out of construction paper. I stopped using those religiously..
If you are at the store and can't pick between two brands, go with the one that's a little bit heavier, because chances are it has a quality element, not junk.
can you look at one and get pics or tell me who makes it?
there are 3 oem mazda filters i know of.
mazdausa now supplies us with a european made filter its b6y1-14-302-9a, seems to be just fine
mazda japan sells a tokyo roki made filter, its very high quality, denser packing (i used to have cut open ones) b6y1-14-302a
mazdausa also had a USA made filter, b6y2-14-302, its made by tennex, we had problems with them screwing on the motor, its basically junk
01-07-2006 | 06:19 PM
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,108
right now i'm using those blue mazda canada filters. I bought two dozens for ultra cheap a long time ago. I have about 4 more left I think.
What would you say about using other filters that weren't meant for a mazda application.
I have two 2002 Honda Accord filters. It seems to be high quality and it is made in USA by Honeywell.
I also have a 2003 subaru legacy GT and that filter is a purolator filter from subaru dealership. It too seems like a high quality filter. They both screw into the pedalstal fine and have the same OD, but different heights.
What if i were to use a subaru or honda filter in my rx7? would it work?
What would you say about using other filters that weren't meant for a mazda application.
I have two 2002 Honda Accord filters. It seems to be high quality and it is made in USA by Honeywell.
I also have a 2003 subaru legacy GT and that filter is a purolator filter from subaru dealership. It too seems like a high quality filter. They both screw into the pedalstal fine and have the same OD, but different heights.
What if i were to use a subaru or honda filter in my rx7? would it work?
01-07-2006 | 06:36 PM
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,068
From: Kincardine, Ontario Canada yeah Canada bitches
Originally Posted by ColinRX7' post='792676' date='Jan 7 2006, 05:05 PM
I wouldn't run 10 weight in the winter. Mazda recommends 10 weight of the car sees 0 fahrenheit or lower, so yeah, use it if your car is going to see negative 18 C ambient temp (not windchill). Otherwise, always use 20w50, and always use a mineral oil, nothing synthetic. Rotary engines burn oil on purpose, running synthetic is debateable...
I never had a slow crank problem running 20 weight in the winter.
I cut up a Mazda Canada OEM filter and found it was like fram, which is a garbage filter.. I never cut up a fram top of the line filter but on an oil filter study they weren't any better other than some flashy packaging.. I would hope fram's most expensive stuff had a proper element, not some mass production quantity-over-quality bullshit.
Purolator filters are top notch, at a general auto store, the valvoline filters are made by purolator. Kralinator is another good filter. Fleetguard is good (if you can find one for a mazda application) as well..
Basically what makes or breaks a filter is cheap plastic drainbacks and paper and glue versus actual steel ended filter elements, etc.
The Mazda Canada OEM filter was glued together, and looked like a fifth grader cut the end caps of the element out of construction paper. I stopped using those religiously..
If you are at the store and can't pick between two brands, go with the one that's a little bit heavier, because chances are it has a quality element, not junk.
LOL like you know what winter is Colin, but I guess it gets cold in my neck of the woods lol!!
