hey just an intro i am a mechanic and have put a few dsms into the 12's and 11's and been working on them since i was 16 and i have done some honda work for friends. i am builing a b16 for a kid right now.



well i am hoping to start a new fun car and i love the third gen rx7 but don't want to invest that kind of money. i see you can get a 13b out of a 3g for about 1000 shipped, and i am curious of the compatability of that version of the engine into the 2g body. i am sorry if i am talking out of my *** but i have not got to research much. also i don't want to get internal to much and i know the 3g style 13b is very potent not that the 2g can't be made that way but i would like to stuff it in go like hell for about 2k$.



also i am sorry if the differances that make the 3g have more power are not internal, but i figured it was partially internal and the switch from the twin scroll to the seq. twins.

 

power differences are mostly from the turbos, and more boost.



they moves the engine mounts from the center housing to the rear housing, when they switched to the fd. trans/clutch stuff is compatable (pressure plates are different).



electronics are way different, be easier to to a standalone



the twin turbos will fit in the fc engine bay, but its tight, performance and reliability goes up with a single turbo anyways....



the fd motor requires a front mounted intercooler

 

are the n/a bodies compatable with the turbo II engines? and how hard is it to score a turbo II engine?

 

bodies are all the same, except for the automatic trans mount is a couple inches further back.



the turbo did get a larger trans, driveshaft, rear end and axles.

 

I know there was a member on here selling mounts to get a 13b-REW (3g motor) into an FC, i forget who offhand, but he had a big thread in this section about his swap project. If you are doing the swap, with either the 13b-REW or 13b-T (turbo II motor), you will need to get the turbo II trans, driveshaft, rear end and axles, as stated above, cause the N/A running gear wont hold the torque from a turbo motor

 

You would be better off to get a cosmo 13b from japan for cheaper and rebuild it just to refresh everything and port the exhaust ports (becasue they are really restricted) or get TII exhaust sleeves pressed into the ports or something like that. You should still be able to do all of that and get out for less than a 3rd gen motor, plus the cosmo 13b has larger intake ports than the 3g and the engine will also bolt in much easier. You can use the stock cosmo twins or go single turbo (which is smarter). You would still have to go stand alone fuel management.

 

Mazdaspeed7 has custom made mounts for the REW into an FC i also am in the process of building an REW for my FC the only problem I have thought about but could be wrong i dont think the stock N/A diff will handdle the power difference. One thing i want to know is what is the best thing to do to the stock twins for my REW im trying to explore many options. Peace

 

best thing to do with the stock twins is toss em in the trash, and get a single.



they generate a TON of heat, so you can either pick power (360ish) or reliability, but not both

 

what is a good turbo set up?

 

prolly at least a t04 60-1, give you good spool up (15psi around 3500), around 400hp@15psi. better to have a fully divided manifold and turbine (back pressure is evil). sorta depends what you're after too. the factory got 530hp@8500rpms@15psi with a bridgeport and 2 larger t4's