More brake swap questions
#1
I'm currently in the process of converting the braking system on my '89 GTU to the high-spec braking system from my wrecked '86 RX-7 GXL. I've decided to make the parts as good as I can before installing them in my '89. I got my new braided stainless steel brake lines, caliper rebuild kits, and caliper hardware kits last week, and I am having the rotors turned sometime this week. Once my dad gets back from his fishing trip this week, he is going to take the calipers into work to have them cleaned. Actually, my buddy Nick and I attempted to clean up one of the front calipers, but it turned out to be more difficult than we'd imagined. There are so many damned crevices on those things!
Anyhow, I had a few questions for you guys in regards to the whole job.
1) Has anyone used or heard anything about EBC Green Stuff or Porterfield R4 brake pads? I was going to go for Axxis Metal Masters, but I haven't had much luck in finding them online and a lot of people have said they dust like crazy.
2) What sort of precautions should I take if I want to sandblast the outer surfaces of the calipers? I'm not sure that a simple solvent bath is going to clean up these things enough, and I'd like to have them flawless before I finish them. I have access to a small handheld sandblaster gun thing if its safe to use.
3) Does anyone know anything about getting parts anodized? I was thinking of having the outer surfaces of the calipers anodized, instead of painting them. What about powdercoating? Any thoughts on this? Screw it, I'll just paint them.
Anyhow, I had a few questions for you guys in regards to the whole job.
1) Has anyone used or heard anything about EBC Green Stuff or Porterfield R4 brake pads? I was going to go for Axxis Metal Masters, but I haven't had much luck in finding them online and a lot of people have said they dust like crazy.
2) What sort of precautions should I take if I want to sandblast the outer surfaces of the calipers? I'm not sure that a simple solvent bath is going to clean up these things enough, and I'd like to have them flawless before I finish them. I have access to a small handheld sandblaster gun thing if its safe to use.
#2
Anodizing is spot out, you don't want to dip them in the anodizing solution or get it that hot in that solution for that period of time.
As far as powerdcoating...I suppose you could do it. I don't think the 300degree temp for the coating should cause them to warp or anything but I'm by no means an expert on it.
As far as powerdcoating...I suppose you could do it. I don't think the 300degree temp for the coating should cause them to warp or anything but I'm by no means an expert on it.
#3
the key is the o rings between the 2 halves of the caliper. it is not offered seperately, and you arent supposed to take the halves apart. i would want to heat the caliper as little as possible, it would suck to have it leak
mike
mike
#4
Originally Posted by Rotarydragon' date='Aug 25 2002, 07:34 PM
Anodizing is spot out, you don't want to dip them in the anodizing solution or get it that hot in that solution for that period of time.
As far as powerdcoating...I suppose you could do it. I don't think the 300degree temp for the coating should cause them to warp or anything but I'm by no means an expert on it.
As far as powerdcoating...I suppose you could do it. I don't think the 300degree temp for the coating should cause them to warp or anything but I'm by no means an expert on it.
#5
Yeah it's just that powdercoating is a sustained heat. I think they could take that however.
Anodizing is a no no, you dip the whole thing in sulpheric acid or a lye solution to clean it off then heat it up. The combo of the two just wouldn't be healthy
Anodizing is usually only used on aluminum.
Anodizing is a no no, you dip the whole thing in sulpheric acid or a lye solution to clean it off then heat it up. The combo of the two just wouldn't be healthy
Anodizing is usually only used on aluminum.
#6
Originally Posted by Rotarydragon' date='Aug 27 2002, 12:46 PM
Yeah it's just that powdercoating is a sustained heat. I think they could take that however.
Anodizing is a no no, you dip the whole thing in sulpheric acid or a lye solution to clean it off then heat it up. The combo of the two just wouldn't be healthy
Anodizing is usually only used on aluminum.
Anodizing is a no no, you dip the whole thing in sulpheric acid or a lye solution to clean it off then heat it up. The combo of the two just wouldn't be healthy
Anodizing is usually only used on aluminum.
#7
Originally Posted by dysthymia' date='Aug 27 2002, 12:51 AM
[quote name='Rotarydragon' date='Aug 25 2002, 07:34 PM']Anodizing is spot out, you don't want to dip them in the anodizing solution or get it that hot in that solution for that period of time.
As far as powerdcoating...I suppose you could do it. I don't think the 300degree temp for the coating should cause them to warp or anything but I'm by no means an expert on it.
As far as powerdcoating...I suppose you could do it. I don't think the 300degree temp for the coating should cause them to warp or anything but I'm by no means an expert on it.
The heat and the chemicals used in anodizing are not what you would call "caliper friendly". You would be far better off with a gentle glass beading, and a nice paint job with a heat resistant finish. Anodizing is good on sheet goods, like aluminum. I suppose it could be done on the calipers but im sure a rebuild wouldnt be your only problem. I looked into having my throttle body protected in some way, but the only thing aside from painting that would work is to polish, which would also work on the calipers, but would be a maintenance nightmare.
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