How much hp is the stock TII fuel system good for?
#11
Originally Posted by jefraney' post='770429' date='Oct 18 2005, 11:45 AM
I didnt say you cant do it on a stock turbo, I said stock turbo and stock ported engine. You might be able to do it on a stock ported engine. But, I havnt seen it yet.
I plan on making at least 300 when I go to the dyno in a few weeks, but I also have more mods than just fuel .
My motor is also stock port, I'll have to get 720's for sure maybe a walbro, but we'll see. I think I can make 300
#12
you see that is what i wanted to hear 300 hp to the floor! that is what i want maybe 320 just so we are not the same and i can beat you...lol but if he runs the stock 550 and the walbro he is going to need a fcd, but wouldn't be better to get the rtec 1.7 and the 720's so it can retard the timing if he goes over 9 psi right!
#13
I feel like an old geeser started a sentence like this, BUT:
Back in my days (a minor 5 years ago), guys with T2s only wanted to hit that 220-250whp mark. It was good clean reliable fun,lol...it seems now that this is the 3rd or 4th thread I've read w/ guys wanting to make 300whp out of there stock long block. Now I'm not saying this isn't possible, but it's not easy. I've got dynos of a guy who made 298whp on a stock T2 turbo and manifold, but he had a nicely built engine. I believe 300whp is obtainable using an extremely well REBUILT stock block. If you use new parts that aren't 15+yrs old and can be trusted, 300whp is reachable. My setup to reach 300whp would be(keep in mind, stock long block, just new and fresh):
-Stock turbo at 12psi (even though it is at it's limit)
-FMIC (w/ as minimal pipework you can do)
-Aluminum Radiator (to keep things cool)
-Cleaned 550 injectors, maybe bump to 570cc primary
-680cc or more w/ controller secondaries
-Underdrive crank pulley(maybe even a gilmer system)
-No A/C or PS
-Full exhaust - 3" no cats
-Free flow intake setup & filter
-Retuned ECU or standalone/maybe piggyback
All well and tuned, that stock long block, turbo,etc should make a decent amount of power. If non-turbo 13Bs in the ITS class can make 202whp...you should be able to make 98whp extra w/ boost,lol.
Oh, side note...you won't make it on that JDM used block though..it'll die long before you make the mark.
Back in my days (a minor 5 years ago), guys with T2s only wanted to hit that 220-250whp mark. It was good clean reliable fun,lol...it seems now that this is the 3rd or 4th thread I've read w/ guys wanting to make 300whp out of there stock long block. Now I'm not saying this isn't possible, but it's not easy. I've got dynos of a guy who made 298whp on a stock T2 turbo and manifold, but he had a nicely built engine. I believe 300whp is obtainable using an extremely well REBUILT stock block. If you use new parts that aren't 15+yrs old and can be trusted, 300whp is reachable. My setup to reach 300whp would be(keep in mind, stock long block, just new and fresh):
-Stock turbo at 12psi (even though it is at it's limit)
-FMIC (w/ as minimal pipework you can do)
-Aluminum Radiator (to keep things cool)
-Cleaned 550 injectors, maybe bump to 570cc primary
-680cc or more w/ controller secondaries
-Underdrive crank pulley(maybe even a gilmer system)
-No A/C or PS
-Full exhaust - 3" no cats
-Free flow intake setup & filter
-Retuned ECU or standalone/maybe piggyback
All well and tuned, that stock long block, turbo,etc should make a decent amount of power. If non-turbo 13Bs in the ITS class can make 202whp...you should be able to make 98whp extra w/ boost,lol.
Oh, side note...you won't make it on that JDM used block though..it'll die long before you make the mark.
#15
#16
Originally Posted by rx7man629' post='770570' date='Oct 18 2005, 09:23 PM
i am doing a jspec TII swap in my 89 gtu
generally when installing a used JDM motor into your car people suggest having it torn down an rebuilt, a *lot* of people have had motor failures rather quickly when just directly swapping in a used jdm motor. some have had success tho so its sort of a gamble. Personally i wouldnt gamble on the engine, but hey to each their own.
The amount of fun you have with modifying your car is directly related to the amount of care and work you do to the car. If you're just gonna halfass it, itll bite you in the ***. Especially when you push the envelope of stock, unrebuilt things.
I'm not saying go out there and build the car from the ground up, or go out there and build a monster, but the key to modifying cars is to start off from a solid foundation.
A solid foundation is not a used motor, a 15yr old turbo, 15yr old wiring, etc etc.
Building that solid foundation to start from is where most people turn their cars into money pits. TO make a good foundation you should rebuild the engine, rebuild the turbo, check all wiring, replacing all vaccuum lines, replace fuel lines, replace the pulsation dampener (or fuel rail in the s5's case), clean out all the idle controls that can get clogged and **** up the idle (aka BACV) etc etc.
Now what happens to most people is they decide to build the solid foundation like i said. But while they rebuild the motor they figure "hell its open, lets port it", then they figure "**** rebuilding the turbo, lets go bigger", then its "**** checking the wiring lets go standalone". Basically they realize why start from brand new stock when you can start from brand new, better then stock.
that is basically what happened to my car, sort of. I only planned to build a car for 350-400hp. But when i took my t04e of my car during the project, i realized it was destroyed. I couldve saved some money and just rebuilt, but instead i bought a t78 and now im aiming for about 200 extra hp.
listen to me, or dont. either way your projects will still follow this outline . either that or youll get annoyed or bored and sell the car. its how it works.
kevin.
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