Here's the issues.



The car runs perfectly at all temperatures. The car starts perfectly when cold or semi-warm. After it comes up to operating temperature and you turn it off, it will not start back up, even if you try immediately. If I let it sit for 15 minutes or so, it will start right up.



Here's what I've done so far:



1. New wires & NGK plugs.

2. Fuel pump cut-off switch tied to the under-dash relay. It doesn't matter if I kill the fuel to stop the engine, or just turn it off with the key. It still won't start back up, i.e. I don't think it's flooding.

3. New air & fuel filters.

4. Compression within spec, both rotors.

5. Fuel running & hold pressure within spec.

6. Injectors professionally cleaned, flow & leak tested.

7. All new vacuum lines everywhere.





This may be related, I don't know, but if this were a carbeurated car, I'd say it's running too rich. The plugs get black & there is blueish fuel smelling smoke out of the exhaust. I've adjusted the BAC valve per the manual, but it doesn't seem to make a difference.



The car has plenty of power & idles perfectly. I can't set the timing because the alignment marks are off for some reason (read my post, "Timing Problem").



Any ideas?

 

Adjust the TPS.

 

usually is a vacuum leak, i had 2 vacuum lines crossed and my car would do the exact same thing as you describe



mike

 

leaky injectors?

 

Which 2 lines?

 

Any tricks for adjusting the TPS?, or just follow the instructions in the manual.

 

I had the injectors professionally cleaned, flow & leak tested.

 

I use the voltage method. I've never used the two light method most people talk about.





My car didn't have any hot-start problems after I had the TPS replaced, so that's why I'm suggesting checking it.

 

i got an extra tps at home somewhere. its yours for a cheap price if ya need it

 

Which 2 lines? [/quote]

2 at the air control valve