OK, so my car won't start. It died while driving down the street. No weird noises, just died. Seemed like it choked out. Now it tries to start, but just wont.



So I checked everything per the FSM. And When I checked the Air Flow meter,. I am told to check the Ohms between E1 and Fc. This test is for the Measuring plate (Fuel Pump Switch). THe FSM states that with the door closed it should be Infinate Resistance. Which I get (OL). And it should be 0 When Fully open. Now I would assume that from closed to fully open the Ohms should gradually decrease based on how open the door is. However, Mine goes from OL to 0 right away. Even the slightest pressure on the door, and it jumps to 0 Ohms. And it stays at 0 the whole time; unless allowed to fully close. Now I assume this is a shorted Air flow meter. Is this how the Air flow meter should react? Could this cause my problem? PLEASE HELP!

 

Come on.. where is all the help around here?! Someone please help me.

 

gotta give me till the mornin man, too drunk to operate my multi-meter. but I'll let you know asafp

 

well bud, I checked the sensor and the pins arent labeled. the book failed me too! (it says "you need special equipment") if you look though on the female end of that connector it goes something like

-

-

x

-

-

-

-



make sense? (the x has no prong) lable these with their respective ohm measurements and I'll check mine for ya.

 

the fuel pump switch is exactly that, a switch, when the afm is closed its "off" as soon as it opens, its on

 

Ok so, My AFM is working the way it should? I would have assumed, that the Ohms reading would change according to the amount the door was open or closed.





Hilbilly. I am testing it according to the Factory Service Manual. It shows the pins, and the Ohms readings it should be.





Well, Does anyone else have any clues as to what the problem could be?





When the motor is trying to start, what sensors are givign the input for the vehicle to start? Knowing this might better help m,e determine the problem. Because a Rotary doesnt just die out of nowhere while driving. It has to be electrical. Please help..



Also, thanks for your responses. I seriously appreciate it.

 

some q's

1. Have you checked the compression.

2. is fuel pump working

3. you have a strong spark



thats all i could think of right now maybe a vac leak.

 

Yes I have strong Compression. (BTW the motor has 13K on a Reman)

I have spark. And I have fuel.



When I try and start it, it sounds as if it wants to start. It just doesn't. It rotates nicely... strong battery charge... good starter. Fires once in a great while. Almost sounds like a car does when you put the Distrubutor in 180 Degerees off on a normal piston motor, or when a Mass Air Flow Sensor is bad.



Here is a list of things I have done.....



Got Oil

Got Coolent

Checked AFM

Checked Fuel Pump Resistor

Checked Coil Resistance

Checked Spark Plus wire resistance

Did normal Unflooding Procedure

Did ATF Unflooding Procedure

Removed UIM and cleaned it out completely

Checked TPS

Checked wiring

Used Multimeter on wiring harness connections at ECU for correct voltages.

Replaced Plugs

Made Sure Plugs are correct and that wires are in correct locations.

I have checked my spark... I have spark at all 4 wires.

I set the Timing on the CAS.

Checked all Vac lines for leaks.







Anythign else anyone can suggest?!

 

check your fuel filter?



kevin.

 

compression #'s?