Five Lug Conversion

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04-13-2005 | 11:23 PM

smitty

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Joined: Mar 2003

Posts: 187

I searced and read some posts. I must be missing something can't you just remove the axel nut pull the rotor with the hub and install the five bolt hub and rotor. Then install 4 piston calipers. swap booster and proportioning valve. evrything else looks the same to me fill me in on what I'm missing.

thans

Dave

04-14-2005 | 08:38 AM

Baldy

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Joined: Sep 2002

Posts: 5,425

From: Tallahassee, FL

That's correct, remove the axle nut and pop it off there, slap the new assembly on there.

04-15-2005 | 07:26 AM

smitty

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Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2003

Posts: 187

Thanks for the info Baldy the post tat got me confused was one you posted on june 30 2004. Check it out maybe it should be deleted. the first post 4 to 5lug conversion by mattmomoney.

Thanks

Dave

04-15-2005 | 09:55 AM

Baldy

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Joined: Sep 2002

Posts: 5,425

From: Tallahassee, FL

[quote name='smitty' date='Apr 15 2005, 06:26 AM']Thanks for the info Baldy the post tat got me confused was one you posted on june 30 2004. Check it out maybe it should be deleted. the first post 4 to 5lug conversion by mattmomoney.

Thanks

Dave

[snapback]699984[/snapback]

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Not sure where the confusing part is, let me know...

Quote:

You'll need the 5-lug hubs, and if you do the 4-piston brake calipers (why swap to single, that sucks!), the brake lines from the calipers, the booster and proportioning valve from the donor car.

Remove the axle nuts on the rear, remove the single shock nut on the rear, and I think 2 other bolts that hold the rear hub to the control arm. You may have to use a gear puller to get the hub off the axle. Also remove the brake line (flared-nut wrench), and e-brake cable.

The front, remove the 2 bolts that hold the hub to the shock, the pinch bolt for the ball joint, the cotter pin/castle nut for the steering arm thingy, and I think maybe 1 other bolt that holds the hub to the control arm. Also remove the brake line (flared-nut wrench).

Booster is easy to replace, I think it's 4 bolts, remove the nuts inside the cabin above the pedals. 2 bolts hold the master cylinder to the booster. The proportioning valve is held in place just by all the brake lines, I think. Bleed the master cylinder, bleed all the brake lines, check to be sure you have good brake pads, smooth rotors, good bearings (mine were bad on the donor pieces), and I think that's it.