coolant flow from through tb
#2
If you dont need it for BAC, go for it. I ditched my BAC with my ported motor, and removed the nipples from the block and water pump, and tapped the holes. Then I lock-tite'd a set screw in there. Worked great.
If you dont need the BAC, you dont need that line. But if you do that, make sure you block off both of the nipples, water pump and rear end plate.
If you dont need the BAC, you dont need that line. But if you do that, make sure you block off both of the nipples, water pump and rear end plate.
#4
that line has nothing to do with the bac. the only reason I see the line there is to stop the BAC from freezing?? but no coolant goes into the bac. the line can be removed with no effects to the BAC.
so yes once you do the TB mod you remove that line as it has no purpose after. as well as the other side of it from the TB to the engine.
so yes once you do the TB mod you remove that line as it has no purpose after. as well as the other side of it from the TB to the engine.
#8
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Nov 21 2002, 05:06 PM
we were thinking it keeps the bac from overheating? but either way if you keep the bac, its prolly best to keep the coolant in it.
mike
mike
hmm I was planing on removing my line and keeping the BAC at the end of the winter...
#9
it doesnt seem likely that it's there to keep the BACV from overheating, since the coolant is most likely significantly hotter... the BACV is bolted to a nice big aluminum heat sink if theres a heat issue I doubt running hot coolant against it will improve the situation. It's probably for melting any ice that may have formed from condensation in extreme cold weather, so after the coolant warms up the BACV can do it's job if it was frozen at startup... I would probably just do the TB mod, ditch the hoses (plug the nipples) and just remove the coolant passthru piece that is bolted to the BACV, then you can keep the BACV in case you like your car idling independantly when you use accessories.