Coilover install help (HKS Hypermax II)
#1
I've never installed coilovers and have a few questions (just got these today, like new).
Which side is left and which is right or doesn't it matter?
Does it matter which way the top mounts face in the rear?
On the bottom mount, does the spacer that sticks out more face the tire or the middle of the car (rear side)?
What are the two metal rings they gave you for?
With no brake bracket in the front what do you do? Just leave the lines attatched to nothing?
Which way should the gas charge port face on the rear?
Can you get an alignment before corner weighting or must that be done first?
And, where can I get an extra adjustment ****/allen screws (missing the ones for the end of the extensions)
Which side is left and which is right or doesn't it matter?
Does it matter which way the top mounts face in the rear?
On the bottom mount, does the spacer that sticks out more face the tire or the middle of the car (rear side)?
What are the two metal rings they gave you for?
With no brake bracket in the front what do you do? Just leave the lines attatched to nothing?
Which way should the gas charge port face on the rear?
Can you get an alignment before corner weighting or must that be done first?
And, where can I get an extra adjustment ****/allen screws (missing the ones for the end of the extensions)
#2
if theres no brake line clips then it doesnt matter which side they go on. unless its got camber plates, shock should be able to go furthest to the inner rear of the hole in the top.
rear should kinda figure itself out, i have a feeling the spacer goes toward the control arm, other wise it doesnt make sense that its there.
gas charge ports, should be where ever is least likely to get sheared off on a bump
aligment should be first, although they are slightly related
rear should kinda figure itself out, i have a feeling the spacer goes toward the control arm, other wise it doesnt make sense that its there.
gas charge ports, should be where ever is least likely to get sheared off on a bump
aligment should be first, although they are slightly related
#3
Thanks for the help, I ended up finding a Japanese instruction manual and found out I'm supposed to have a hose clamp with brake clip for each side, so I'll be trying to order those and using zipties for now.
One more question, I don't know the measurements on a stock car that's not sagging, but the Tokico's with my wheels measured about 26" all around to the middle of the fender and that's supposed to be a 3/4" drop. So, I know I don't want to go more then 1" in the rear or it messes up the camber I heard but in the front do you want to keep the height the same as the rear? Or should there be a difference front to rear for best performance? This is to get baseline before corner weighting of course. As it sits now the driver side is lower too. I haven't tried to see if I can adjust them without taking the wheels off yet.
Oh yeah, what's a good camber setting to run in the front for daily driving and then for track? For safe tire wear I just set it at 1 notch from zero inward assuming that's degrees.
One more question, I don't know the measurements on a stock car that's not sagging, but the Tokico's with my wheels measured about 26" all around to the middle of the fender and that's supposed to be a 3/4" drop. So, I know I don't want to go more then 1" in the rear or it messes up the camber I heard but in the front do you want to keep the height the same as the rear? Or should there be a difference front to rear for best performance? This is to get baseline before corner weighting of course. As it sits now the driver side is lower too. I haven't tried to see if I can adjust them without taking the wheels off yet.
Oh yeah, what's a good camber setting to run in the front for daily driving and then for track? For safe tire wear I just set it at 1 notch from zero inward assuming that's degrees.
#4
seems like about 25.5" rear and 25" front is about right. you can go lower but geometry starts getting weird, and you start hitting stuff over bumps.
you wanna even everything out at first, preferably with some weight in the drivers seat.
-1 to -1.5 is fine on the street, on the track you want more (depending on the tires)
while you've got the car on the alignment rack is a good time to see if the marks on the camber plates can be indexed to anything, be a huge time saver
you wanna even everything out at first, preferably with some weight in the drivers seat.
-1 to -1.5 is fine on the street, on the track you want more (depending on the tires)
while you've got the car on the alignment rack is a good time to see if the marks on the camber plates can be indexed to anything, be a huge time saver
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