Car Won't Start When Hot, But It Fires Up Cold
#1
alright, so the saga of my T2 continues. It starts really strongly, it is timed correct, and runs smoothly, but it won't start when it is hot. If i cold start it, and warm it up, it won't restart again till it cools. If i turn it off before it heats up, it can start again immediately. I've never heard of this and was hoping someone here had.
any ideas... compression is good, so it's not that, and i taped up the tid good enough that the car, when hot will idle @ about 700, so i don't think it's vacume.
any ideas... compression is good, so it's not that, and i taped up the tid good enough that the car, when hot will idle @ about 700, so i don't think it's vacume.
#4
How does the oil look? Is it dark or flaky?
Check to see if the engine can be spun by hand easily when hot. If you can spin it when cold but not when hot the bearings could be shot.
This has happened to me twice and both times bearings were the culprit.
Check to see if the engine can be spun by hand easily when hot. If you can spin it when cold but not when hot the bearings could be shot.
This has happened to me twice and both times bearings were the culprit.
#5
Sounds like the typical hot-start flooding problem to me.
You say compression is "good". What are the #s?
Next time it's hot try holding the throttle to the firewall from the turn of the key 'til it fires off.
My guess is your compression isn't as good as you think.
You say compression is "good". What are the #s?
Next time it's hot try holding the throttle to the firewall from the turn of the key 'til it fires off.
My guess is your compression isn't as good as you think.
#6
new plugs, new wires, new oil, its a new motor. I ran a compression test on it, and it came up as 60/60/60 front 60/60/60 rear... but tester has a leak in it... i tested my vert, which runs really well it came up 52/52/52 and 52/52/52, so the compression isn't an issue...
i realize those #'s are extremely low, but again the tester has a bad leak in it before the gauge so it isn't accurate.
(i gotta buy new tools.)
i realize those #'s are extremely low, but again the tester has a bad leak in it before the gauge so it isn't accurate.
(i gotta buy new tools.)
#8
The TPS is not in the loop during startup.
It can cause fuel cuts, gas mileage, & idle problems, but I can't think of how it would affect hot starts.
FWIW: My start problem is due to low compression.
My temproary fix is to install a button that grounds the fuel pump resistor solenoid, to hold down the fuel pressure until it gets going.
It can cause fuel cuts, gas mileage, & idle problems, but I can't think of how it would affect hot starts.
FWIW: My start problem is due to low compression.
My temproary fix is to install a button that grounds the fuel pump resistor solenoid, to hold down the fuel pressure until it gets going.
#9
Try unplugging the PRC solenoid on the vacuum rack. I believe its the orange one. What it does it cut off the vacuum signal to the fuel pressure regulator on hot starts, raising the fuel pressure slightly.
#10
[quote name='sureshot' date='Jun 14 2005, 07:46 AM']The TPS is not in the loop during startup.
It can cause fuel cuts, gas mileage, & idle problems, but I can't think of how it would affect hot starts.
FWIW: My start problem is due to low compression.
My temproary fix is to install a button that grounds the fuel pump resistor solenoid, to hold down the fuel pressure until it gets going.
[/quote]
Yep what he said. I have the same setup. Though mine is because of a nasty injector leak.
It can cause fuel cuts, gas mileage, & idle problems, but I can't think of how it would affect hot starts.
FWIW: My start problem is due to low compression.
My temproary fix is to install a button that grounds the fuel pump resistor solenoid, to hold down the fuel pressure until it gets going.
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Yep what he said. I have the same setup. Though mine is because of a nasty injector leak.