Calling rotaryman88..... I know you are either in the process of the same swap as myself or are done with it. The biggest reason I ask you is because you got your engine from fc3s.org also, I think. Hmmmm a couple of questions for you.



After you got everything installed, including fluids. Did you have to get your engine tuned? What were some of the problems you faced after you had all your parts in and were ready to have her running?



I'm almost completely done with mine and ready to get her started and running.. However, I'm tryng to anticipate any small little pre-start problems including tuning, carbon lock, anything in preparing the finished product for use.

Thanks a whole lot in advance.

 

Well, the biggest problem I've faced so far...is the carbon lock. My car still isn't running, but thats because I need to get the rear end put in and pull the car behind a truck and "bump" start it. The carbon lock is a big problem for Jspec motors...you'll need to run ATF through it to get it built up. I had 0 compression in both housings when I first spun the motor over. Now after about 3 weeks of working w/ ATF and some other small things, I've built the compression up to around 40 front and 60 rear..but the car is flooding itself too...which isn't making it easier on me. When I get the rear end in, and bump start the motor(which i'm 99% sure will work) then I'm gonna run a full tank of gas through it while idling and revving...simple driving...93 octane. I'll probably pull the secondaries and replace them w/ 720s....other then that...I haven't had any motor problems. The turbo seems good(no shaft play, etc) and I visualy checked before installing the motor that there were apex seals...just to make sure. What kinda transplant are you doing? 87/88 or 89/91?

 

I'm doing series 5 NA to series 5 T2.

Damn you don't have any compression in your engine?!!!! That's not good. Why do you think that is?



Were you able to turn your eccentric shaft when you first got your engine? Didn't turning it blow your engine plugs out? Doesn't that mean it has good compression?



I heard doing the ATF trick will tear your seals down.



I'm kinda concerned about whether or not my engine will have compression now. I'll one pissed off dude if it doesn't.



Mike

I'm getting my rear end in hopefully in the next couple of days or so. I think I'm going to wait to "bump" start mine rather than put ATF in. :madgo: :madgo: :madgo: :madgo:

 

Hmmm, I might have started jumping to conclusions, but isn't 0 compression in both rotors bad... and just putting ATF in isn't going to solve that is it?



Mike

PS where did you get your rear end? Got mine from rising sun.

 

Well, Dave at FC3S.org where the motor came from recommended ATF as well as the rotary specialist helping me w/ the car. In japan the vendors put this black slimey substance that hardens to prevent rust and water vapor from corroding the interior of the motor(the motors are around a lot of salt water ya know, lol) and the ATF is good for breaking that stuff apart. If in fact the motor will not start, Dave is sending me another one...he's a cool guy and they guarantee a motor will start and they'll keep sending me one until I find one that does. My first indication that something may be wrong when I got my motor was when it arrived, I easily turned the flywheel...but it had its apex seals and it did blow air like it should....the motor didnt move the compression guage at all when I first got it....and now its showing about 40/60 but I need 90/100 to be happy, lol. The apex seals are just stuck...they'll take some convincing...I might have got a motor that has sat a while...

 

OK, I didn't know about the anti-corrosive they put in it. I also don't really understand how the apex seals work (GUESS IT TIME TO CRACK OPEN THE NA Block to find out). I am not sure but from what you said, it sounds like the chances that I need to do the same (ATF) to mine are pretty high.

Did anyone tell you how long to leave the ATF in? Or how much to put in the crankcase? Does one run the engine with the ATF in? For how long. How many times have you done the ATF so far?

I hate to bug, but I just want to make sure I do everything right, as this is my first rotary engine project.



Mike

 

Its cool...love helping.

I have a ATF part in the "STEP BY STEPS" on the nopistons.com homepage. Its a guessing game really on how much ATF to use. I usually use about 1/4 bottle and let it sit over night. I've run about 2 bottles through now and I've been working w/ it for two weeks. It fouls the spark plugs though, so be sure to use old ones if you have them, or use a cheap set. Yea...crack open your NA...you'll learn alot. The apex seals have springs behind them that let them flex in and out, and the anti-corrosive fluid gets behind the seals and causes the seals to stick back...thus not making contact very well w/ the housing walls...thus low compression

 

so atf doesn't get behind the seals, to the springs? too late i already did it ahaah. So how does atf raise compression? i know it breaks up carbon.

 

ATF does get behind the seals to springs. It breaks down the carbon build up around the seals and springs allowing them to make better/stronger contacts w/ the housing wall, thus gaining compression...it keeps things more tight and won't let fuel/air mix seep out...

 

I was wondering what kept the apex seals tight...cool. What are the apex seals made of anyhow? And theoritically the stronger springs you have, the better your engine would hold compression???

Now I understand why running a tank of gas through your engine would help.



Mike