2nd Gen F.A.Q.'s Post Common Issues, Installtions, Repairs and more pertaining to 2nd Gen RX-7's.

Rats Nest Removal

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-16-2003 | 12:38 AM
  #1  
Racer X's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,542
From: Vanderhoof,BC(Canada)
Default

Just remove the ac&cv (blockoff plate) remove the rats nest, get some fuel line and run it directly to the fuel rails for the feed/return lines... After that you just cap all the vacuum lines except the one that goes from the LIM to the dynamic chamber (the one for the injectors at idle), connect the FPR directly to one on the dynamic chamber, and you leave the boost sensor connected to the UIM on the stock nipple... everything else, capped.
Old 02-17-2003 | 03:09 PM
  #2  
Baldy's Avatar
Super Moderator
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,425
From: Tallahassee, FL
Default

could we have more detail? like, maybe a vacuum routing diagram? excuse my slowness, but I'm sure someone else will eventually have these same questions



ac&cv?

what exactly is the rats nest? how do we know how to remove it if we don't know [specifically] what it is?

maybe before and after pics?



just trying to clarify
Old 02-17-2003 | 03:13 PM
  #3  
Fd3BOOST's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 9,725
From: La Plata, Maryland
Default

The rats nest is the metal rack that holds most turbo related solinoids and metal vacum routes.
Old 02-17-2003 | 03:52 PM
  #4  
Baldy's Avatar
Super Moderator
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,425
From: Tallahassee, FL
Default

thank you for that descriptive (no, I'm not being sarcastic)



what about for n/a?
Old 02-17-2003 | 04:55 PM
  #5  
pengaru's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,930
From: IL
Default

i'll take pics of it later, the thing is, if you have a shop manual or have downloaded a vacuum diagram for your car, it's straightforward. You're removing the rats nest because you've eliminated the emissions junk, which renders the rats nest pretty pointless (theres so much vacuum line it makes sense to have it all in steel tubes routed nicely so you can figure out whats going on when you connect the emissions junk). So when you remove it, you just take it out, cut off the brackets (you still need the integral brackets which support the intake) and throw it away.



Now you look at what you have left, likely fuel pressure regulator, boost sensor, and thats probably it unless you have a turboii, which I have not done so I'm not sure what else is on that car through the rats nest, probably a bit.



You cap everything but the **** you have kept, use the vacuum diagram to find out where those things got their vacuum source before, and just run a vacuum line directly to that source. On NA there is a line going from the LIM between the primary injectors, up to the dynamic chamber, you keep this as it is supposed to improve fuel atomization at low rpms. You run your FPR straight to the back of the dynamic chamber, by the BACV and AWS solenoid theres a nipple. Then you take the boost sensor and run it directly to the UIM, near the junction between the UIM and LIM... it's right in the center on the side facing the passenger side of the engine bay. Cap the rest. It's that simple.



Don't forget your two fuel lines, the feed and return, just get fuel injection hose from the store and run the lines directly to the fuel rails over the block.



Realise you are eliminating some things that are supposed to improve 'driveability', some of these things don't always see vacuum.. the solenoids are used to control that. Your mileage may vary, I'm happy with my removal so far though.



I'll try take some pics later.
Old 02-18-2003 | 10:28 AM
  #6  
Baldy's Avatar
Super Moderator
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,425
From: Tallahassee, FL
Default

what noticeable downsides are there?

and when you say mileage may vary, do you mean better or worse?
Old 02-25-2003 | 08:55 PM
  #7  
Racer X's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,542
From: Vanderhoof,BC(Canada)
Default

Pengaru, did you get some pics yet?I'm wondering what to do with the switching actuator and switching solenoid they refer to in the manual.IT ties in at the metal line under the UIM on the T2 engine.S4 to be exact.I want it as clean as I can get to my NA on the block.



Thanks

Luis
Old 03-05-2003 | 12:14 PM
  #8  
spiney360's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 261
From: utah
Default

i am in the procces of doing this and i have a hayns or whatever manual, i have the intake off and plan to pollish the out side and paint it to match the accesories(ricer, i know)if you have pics or if you could take some of yours

and send it to me i have a 89 gtu it might be a GTUs?
Old 03-05-2003 | 01:56 PM
  #9  
pengaru's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,930
From: IL
Default

sorry no pics yet i've been busy with reverse engineering the haltech, i'll try get some this upcoming weekend if it gets nice outside.
Old 03-16-2003 | 01:54 AM
  #10  
Racer X's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,542
From: Vanderhoof,BC(Canada)
Default

Damn.I'm 90% done and theres the vaccums for the UIM right next to the TB that go to the LIM.I wonder if I have to cap those too?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:20 AM.