Can Get My Hands On Another Fd And 20b
#1
I can get my hands on another fd that is in need of an engine extremely cheap, and I can get my hands on a 20b for a decent price as well. I already own and fd and I run my own shop but havent attempted an engine swap of this magnitude, Ive done honda swaps and a nissan swap but nothing this complicated. I can get most parts at dealer costs and since I have another single turbo fd I figure I will be able to work on this one on the side. I was wondering who has done the conversion themselves, what parts they used and from who, not just a list of parts but any pro's and con's for those parts from different manufacturers would be appreciated. Also I have the shop room to do it, including full two post lift, engine hoists, engine stands etc. I have an auto electrical backround and have no problem with wiring or custom fabrication. Would u reccomend doing this? and how much time/money if you would estimate as a dealer I would have to spend doing all work myself
#3
yah that hard part about the 20b --> fd is the engine mounts and the steering rack. the rack is right where the front rotor on the 20b needs to go. pettit sells a subframe that moves the rack out of the way, this compromises the steering geometry a little. the pettit subframe does let you bolt the 20b right to the existing tranny/ driveline with no other mods. the other way is to mount the engine further back, this will give you better wieght distribution, and you have the stock steering. however, the power plan frame needs to be shortened and the shifter moves back. the rest of the swap is not a lot harder than doing a single turbo and aftermarket ecu on an fd
mike
mike
#7
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Feb 19 2003, 10:41 AM
yah that hard part about the 20b --> fd is the engine mounts and the steering rack. the rack is right where the front rotor on the 20b needs to go. pettit sells a subframe that moves the rack out of the way, this compromises the steering geometry a little. the pettit subframe does let you bolt the 20b right to the existing tranny/ driveline with no other mods. the other way is to mount the engine further back, this will give you better wieght distribution, and you have the stock steering. however, the power plan frame needs to be shortened and the shifter moves back. the rest of the swap is not a lot harder than doing a single turbo and aftermarket ecu on an fd
mike
mike
The Proof or what they said at least.
MVAMOTORSPORT
Posted on Nov 25 2002, 04:43 PM
F.N.G.
Group: Members
Posts: 37
Member No.: 3375
Joined: 26-September 02
Location: Hackensack, NJ
Status: Offline
Everything we use is brand new, I dont have to use Pettis Sub-frame, cost we have found a way to mount the motor leaving all the factory stuff. We dont have to change you sub-frame, nor your rack and pinion, not your spindle everything stays in like factory. All my cars pass emission. 12psi(low boost) is less than 1.0 bar. Anyone else who has more question can PM me.
Posted on Nov 25 2002, 04:43 PM
F.N.G.
Group: Members
Posts: 37
Member No.: 3375
Joined: 26-September 02
Location: Hackensack, NJ
Status: Offline
Everything we use is brand new, I dont have to use Pettis Sub-frame, cost we have found a way to mount the motor leaving all the factory stuff. We dont have to change you sub-frame, nor your rack and pinion, not your spindle everything stays in like factory. All my cars pass emission. 12psi(low boost) is less than 1.0 bar. Anyone else who has more question can PM me.
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