I have spent the better part of the past week reading most of the threads here in the 20b forum(as well as on the other forums). A lot of which had some great information regarding production series numbers and Horsepower figures (primarily for Turbo apps). But I still have a few questions for those who are willing to share.



First a little back ground, I currently have a 87 FC3s with a 13B-RE(stock port) with a 62-1 and all the other stuff needed to make it work (E6X, FMIC…etc). It put down 289@10psi on a very conservative dyno. I now have it running on 14psi and am pretty sure its at or over 300rwhp.



I have a chance to get a first series production 20b (which has the weaker rear plate and E-shaft) I would rebuild the motor with a moderate street port and S5 N/A rotors. My goal is 275rwhp naturally aspirated, pump gas… daily driver (all day everyday )



With no further ado,



My first question



Seeing that this motor is an older version, I am going to assume that there will be a fair amount of wear on the steel plates. If they are out of spec, can they be resurfaced? I know it will shorten the motor and could possibly affect end play/rotor to e-shaft clearance/rotational tolerances. But how much can you surface before you run into such problems and are there steps for clearencing a shorter motor



Second question



When installing Series 5 N/A rotors, are there any special steps that need to be taken other then the normal spec’ing… i.e. - clearancing of the rotor bearing oil journal?



Third question



FC3S installation, the motor mounts will be taken care of as well as modifying the radiator core support. I read that the sway bar is an issue …but what about the oil pan, steering rack clearances. Also, what are the fixes for the sway bar?



Forth question



ECU, I have a Haltech E6X but from what I have read the batch fire will make one rotor run lean and another one run fat. Is this true, do I need to put my E6X up for sale and fork out the money for an E8 or E11?



Anything else I should look for in the first series 20b’s?





and for those who ask... why N/A... I say why not... no just messing, I want to do an N/A because of the simplicity and I want to do a 20b for the torque. I want to stay away from the bridge and the PP 2 rotors. The goal is a daily driver with 275rwhp on pump gas... is it doable?? we will see

 

why not a pp 3 rotor?

 

lol... that would be sweet, however the idle would probably be at the 1500RPM range and power band starts moving up the RPM scale into the 9k range. and they tend to be Very Very loud ... I am looking for something of a sleeper, idles below 1000 with a powerband that peaks in the 6 to 7k range

 

Also, is there differences between the intermediate plates from series to series that would make them not interchangeable... A friend of mine says he knows where a intermediate plate is but doesn't know which one it is (font or rear)and doesn't know what series it is out of.



EXAMPLE will an "A" plate will work in a "D" engine visa versa

 

yeah you can swap the plates round from series to series to the best of my knowledge.

nar ya can just straight swap the rotors