20b In A Glc
07-08-2003, 02:13 PM
#71
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Welcome back Mike! Thanks Racer X.
Here's a quick update, and then I'm outta here.
I get to clean out my garage today. Oh joy! I've got someone coming over on Saturday to see the 20B and as cluttered as my garage is, I'll need the rest of the week! Well, hopefully not, but I also have to squeeze in some time to take the 20B back to the shop where I loosened the cap nut, to tighten it back on up to 200ftlbs or whatever it was.
I also need to pick up two trannies while driving on my nearly dead '79 tranny in my REPU. 1st gear is gone, 2nd works, but sometimes I can't find any other gears other than 5th. Downshifting to third still works though. I think it has something to do with negative pressures while going against compression that realigns everything inside. The shifter forks or something in there is totally worn out. The only damage I'm worried about is the clutch disc which is starting to chatter pretty badly now. It also slips a little in 5th when I do the pedal test. Later!
Here's a quick update, and then I'm outta here.
I get to clean out my garage today. Oh joy! I've got someone coming over on Saturday to see the 20B and as cluttered as my garage is, I'll need the rest of the week! Well, hopefully not, but I also have to squeeze in some time to take the 20B back to the shop where I loosened the cap nut, to tighten it back on up to 200ftlbs or whatever it was.
07-09-2003, 01:51 PM
#74
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Yes
I got a decent ribcase 5 speed out of a '76 Cosmo. I also got what I think is a good used 4 speed ribcase gearbox out of... something. It could have been an REPU? Anyway, it'll replace the bad 4 speed in my MG. For those that don't know the story, my '74 REPU had a bad tranny in it so I swapped in a '79-80 5 speed back in '98 which worked untill recently. A couple years ago, I installed the REPU's old bad 4 speed into my Midget to see if I could get a 13B to fit where a '73 12A used to be. It sure could, and now it's time to install a good 4 speed into it. I'll probably have to swap tail housings because this new 4 speed doesn't have two sets of mounting holes. They're spaced like 20mm apart or something, and one set of holes is perfect in the MG, and the other set was used in the REPU. This other tranny doesn't have both sets. Just gotta find time to do the swaps.
I had a guy spin the front cap nut on yesterday. He used a different impact gun than before, so I'm not sure if it's on too tightly, or not tight enough. He spent more time on it than he'd normally spend on 54mm nuts on flywheels, so it may be on too tightly. But then again, the other impact gun rattled away for quite a while before it finally loosened the nut, and as it was being tightnened, it never stopped turning, so I don't know. I was waiting for it to stop turning. I hope the threads didn't get stretched and destroyed. I wonder how hard it is to do something like that to such large threads? I'll go out and check the condition of my flywheel stopper bolts in a few minutes. The lossening procedure left one of the bolts slightly bent, but it wasn't very tight; I think the impact blows are what tweaked it, so I made sure it was really tight this time before the tightening procedure.
I got a decent ribcase 5 speed out of a '76 Cosmo.
I had a guy spin the front cap nut on yesterday. He used a different impact gun than before, so I'm not sure if it's on too tightly, or not tight enough. He spent more time on it than he'd normally spend on 54mm nuts on flywheels, so it may be on too tightly. But then again, the other impact gun rattled away for quite a while before it finally loosened the nut, and as it was being tightnened, it never stopped turning, so I don't know. I was waiting for it to stop turning. I hope the threads didn't get stretched and destroyed. I wonder how hard it is to do something like that to such large threads? I'll go out and check the condition of my flywheel stopper bolts in a few minutes. The lossening procedure left one of the bolts slightly bent, but it wasn't very tight; I think the impact blows are what tweaked it, so I made sure it was really tight this time before the tightening procedure.
07-09-2003, 03:31 PM
#76
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
One thing that sets my mind at ease is that is never slowed down, unless you count when it got tight and then turned slowly for a little while. Of course it seemed to turn enough to have pulled at least one entire thread, so it if did, the E shaft and/or nut is toast. Actaully, the nut feels like soft metal, kinda like the 19mm bolts of two rotor engines. A simple file or razor blade can leave a nasty mark on them. I guess they're supposed to be soft so they don't shatter while the engine is running.
I think the thread pitch is 1.5 or 1.75mm per thread. They're pretty big. The engine also still has a tiny bit of end play, just like before I messed with the cap nut. So it didn't crush the 8mm spacer thing that sits between the needle "thrust" bearings and stuff. Now I've got to get off my chair and actually get out there and unhook my flywheel stopper and give the engine a good couple of cranks to feel for any abnormalities. Heh, forums are so addicting. Ok, gotta go.
I think the thread pitch is 1.5 or 1.75mm per thread. They're pretty big. The engine also still has a tiny bit of end play, just like before I messed with the cap nut. So it didn't crush the 8mm spacer thing that sits between the needle "thrust" bearings and stuff. Now I've got to get off my chair and actually get out there and unhook my flywheel stopper and give the engine a good couple of cranks to feel for any abnormalities. Heh, forums are so addicting. Ok, gotta go.
07-09-2003, 10:05 PM
#77
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Join Date: Nov 2001
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I don't know if it's just me, but I think it feels tighter than before. It also still has what feels like a tiny bit of end play. I can even hear a slight clunk sound when the flex plate is pulled forward and back like before. However, it feels like a little less than before. I've installed a new front 'main' seal in the front cover and the bearings don't exactly have any oil on them. Could those factors be what is causing the engine to feel tighter?
I know that cranking the engine over by hand with no oil pressure is ok, if done sparingly. I'm thinking it's probably a little tighter than usual, but might not be a problem as it's only maybe 250-300ftlbs. Fellow forum user 'now' says no one really knows what the front torque spec is supposed to be (Mazda omitted that part in the shop manual for some reason). Maybe 220? Maybe 280? I think my 20B at whatever torque it's at is like a two rotor's 19mm bolt at 85-90ftlbs when the torque spec calls for 69ftlbs back in '76 or whatever. Nice justification, huh?
All I know is the socket indentations in the cap nut are a hair deeper on the tighten side than on the loosen side. I also used RTV silicone sealant which acted like a slow speed lubricant (for no oil leaks obviously).
Hmm, after thinking about it some more, I know the first impact gun had to sit there for a while before the nut even started to move. Then while tightening, the next one never stopped turning, even though I expected it to. Perhaps it's actually still a little loose? Doubtful. Weird stuff, huh?
Does anyone think I'll fry the little 8mm spacer or a thrust bearing?
I know that cranking the engine over by hand with no oil pressure is ok, if done sparingly. I'm thinking it's probably a little tighter than usual, but might not be a problem as it's only maybe 250-300ftlbs. Fellow forum user 'now' says no one really knows what the front torque spec is supposed to be (Mazda omitted that part in the shop manual for some reason). Maybe 220? Maybe 280? I think my 20B at whatever torque it's at is like a two rotor's 19mm bolt at 85-90ftlbs when the torque spec calls for 69ftlbs back in '76 or whatever. Nice justification, huh?
All I know is the socket indentations in the cap nut are a hair deeper on the tighten side than on the loosen side. I also used RTV silicone sealant which acted like a slow speed lubricant (for no oil leaks obviously).
Hmm, after thinking about it some more, I know the first impact gun had to sit there for a while before the nut even started to move. Then while tightening, the next one never stopped turning, even though I expected it to. Perhaps it's actually still a little loose? Doubtful. Weird stuff, huh?
Does anyone think I'll fry the little 8mm spacer or a thrust bearing?
07-10-2003, 02:05 AM
#79
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Cool. I also just spoke with the guy that helped me remove the turbos and stuff right after I got the engine, and he thinks it'll probably be ok too. He also is thinking it would be cool to go down to sevenstock in the rotary powered GLC (20B or not).
And here's an interesting product. It was in my PM section on the club forum. It was sent by a deleted user on 01-13-02 04:50 AM. There is also a link to the order form, but it seems to be down, here: https://www.nopistons.com/kcorder.htm. I bet phins will get a kick out of it. Come to think of it, I have no idea who sent me that PM oh so long ago.
And here's an interesting product. It was in my PM section on the club forum. It was sent by a deleted user on 01-13-02 04:50 AM. There is also a link to the order form, but it seems to be down, here: https://www.nopistons.com/kcorder.htm. I bet phins will get a kick out of it. Come to think of it, I have no idea who sent me that PM oh so long ago.