20b In A Glc
12-11-2003, 10:49 AM
#671
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
i looked at a couple of pics and the stock lim is so close to the firewall it will prolly hit it, and self clearance. i wonder if you could like cut down the stock lim and build somethign on top of it?
12-11-2003, 03:05 PM
#672
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
That's what I was thinking. Maybe if I cut it below the secondary injector holes and welded an aluminum pipe right there. Then add two baffle plates spaced 1 inch apart in the middle of the pipe. Then weld the top of the pipe on with a carb adaptor at the top.
Or better yet, I've gotten more familier with intake manifold design lately, and may try my hand at fabricating one out of steel pipes. I'm working on a drawing right now.
Or better yet, I've gotten more familier with intake manifold design lately, and may try my hand at fabricating one out of steel pipes. I'm working on a drawing right now.
12-13-2003, 02:09 AM
#676
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
I think I figured out my manifold dilema. I'll post my idea in the other thread.
I started porting some rotor housings today. They'll go into the 13B for the GLC. I hope I can get this engine ported and in the car soon.
I started porting some rotor housings today. They'll go into the 13B for the GLC. I hope I can get this engine ported and in the car soon.
12-13-2003, 03:47 PM
#677
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Vanderhoof,BC(Canada)
Posts: 5,542
Originally Posted by Jeff20B' date='Dec 13 2003, 12:09 AM
I think I figured out my manifold dilema. I'll post my idea in the other thread.
I started porting some rotor housings today. They'll go into the 13B for the GLC. I hope I can get this engine ported and in the car soon.
I started porting some rotor housings today. They'll go into the 13B for the GLC. I hope I can get this engine ported and in the car soon.
12-13-2003, 08:48 PM
#678
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
As long as it takes to work the bugs out of the cooling system and to get it registered. My friend wants to see the 20B run, but he leaves for the military in Feb. I'd like to let him test drive the 20B before he leaves.
I picked up a sawsall today to widen the radiator supports so I can fit an FB or REPU rad in the car. A nice large core ought to be great for cooling.
I may not use my tall FB rad simply because I can't fit the jack under the car with something that low so far in front. I also don't want to run the risk smashing it on stuff.
I also picked up some acid core solder today to try and repair all three of my REPU radiators. I'm glad I didn't try to fix them with rosin core solder. One has a small pinhole where the rad shop botched a top tank resealing job. It's after their 90 day warranty. The next rad has a couple bad slots in the core and a slow leak, but it was never a problem in my REPU. I'll just keep an eye on the bad slots and repair when necessary. It'll most likely go into the GLC. The last one killed a freshly rebuilt 13B. The PO and I knew his rad leaked, but he forgot about it. He filled it with cold water which cracked the bottom tank or the seam (not sure yet). If I can't fix it, I'll throw the one with the bad slots into the PO's REPU. At least it will still work.
I may end up getting a short style SA rad for the GLC. They cost like $190 form Mazdatrix. Here's to hoping I can fix all the REPU rads.
Hmm, since the rad with the pinhole leak is the best out of the three, maybe it should go into the GLC? There will be an extra rotor to cool... eventually.
What if I used a beehive oil cooler on the 13B? I'm only asking because the oil cooler lines will have to be custom lengths due to where the air oil cooler will get mounted. I figured I save some time and resources and just throw-on a tweaked-for-13B beehive I got out of a 13B powered '84 RX-7. The front cover tube was pulled forward a little. It should be a direct bolt-on. Also, the heater core is missing its hoses, and I'm not sure which direction the coolant flowed through it. Since time is my enemy, I'll just use a beehive on the 13B and an air oil cooler on the 20B.
I picked up a sawsall today to widen the radiator supports so I can fit an FB or REPU rad in the car. A nice large core ought to be great for cooling.
I also picked up some acid core solder today to try and repair all three of my REPU radiators. I'm glad I didn't try to fix them with rosin core solder. One has a small pinhole where the rad shop botched a top tank resealing job. It's after their 90 day warranty. The next rad has a couple bad slots in the core and a slow leak, but it was never a problem in my REPU. I'll just keep an eye on the bad slots and repair when necessary. It'll most likely go into the GLC. The last one killed a freshly rebuilt 13B. The PO and I knew his rad leaked, but he forgot about it. He filled it with cold water which cracked the bottom tank or the seam (not sure yet). If I can't fix it, I'll throw the one with the bad slots into the PO's REPU. At least it will still work.
I may end up getting a short style SA rad for the GLC. They cost like $190 form Mazdatrix. Here's to hoping I can fix all the REPU rads.
Hmm, since the rad with the pinhole leak is the best out of the three, maybe it should go into the GLC? There will be an extra rotor to cool... eventually.
What if I used a beehive oil cooler on the 13B? I'm only asking because the oil cooler lines will have to be custom lengths due to where the air oil cooler will get mounted. I figured I save some time and resources and just throw-on a tweaked-for-13B beehive I got out of a 13B powered '84 RX-7. The front cover tube was pulled forward a little. It should be a direct bolt-on. Also, the heater core is missing its hoses, and I'm not sure which direction the coolant flowed through it. Since time is my enemy, I'll just use a beehive on the 13B and an air oil cooler on the 20B.
12-14-2003, 10:58 AM
#679
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
yah the beehive will get it running, but i'd consider it a temporary thing. also any of those radiators should get it running, i'm thinking the 20b might want something bigger, but who knows? maybe it wont
12-14-2003, 03:59 PM
#680
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Yeah, temporary for sure. It's for the engine break-in so it won't have to cool the engine when it's running hard.
The REPU radiator is fairly large and weighs the same as a tall FB rad. It's shorter with a 13" tall core, and 17" tall overall. I could build a small shroud so I can still use my 16" electric fan. I'll install an aftermarket water temp guage to keep an eye on the 13B with the beehive. Then the 20B will continue using the same gauge, so it will be a great way to see if three rotors can run cooler without the oil's heat getting into the mix.
The REPU radiator is fairly large and weighs the same as a tall FB rad. It's shorter with a 13" tall core, and 17" tall overall. I could build a small shroud so I can still use my 16" electric fan. I'll install an aftermarket water temp guage to keep an eye on the 13B with the beehive. Then the 20B will continue using the same gauge, so it will be a great way to see if three rotors can run cooler without the oil's heat getting into the mix.