anywone can share his own E11 map for a 20B?

thx

FB 1980 20B (in progresss)

 

Hi RX-JESUS I would recomend a Microtech Ltx-12. It works great .

Here are some pictures of my project.





NOW WITH BIGGER TURBO



My Webpage

 

(i don't have any ECU at the moment)

does the Microtech Ltx-12 factory setup run the engine? (or do i need to reconfig all for the first startup?)

what do i need ti know about this ECU?



nice project!!! well done!

 

Make sure you tell your Microtech Dealer that you have 20b engine so that ecu is configured correctly. You can use all the original sensors that come with engine.

Its should start up once you crank it and may need to calibrate TPS adjust Idle portion of the fuel map so the engine would stay on. Once you have it all setup you should take to a dyno with someone that has experience with tuning microtech and you will get alot of hp. Any other question please don't hesitate to ask. Glad to be able to help you.

 

The Hitman is using an E11v2 with a 3 rotor. I think it's a great choice.

 

I'm also considering of buying a M880, E11 or Ltx-12,



But I think the Ltx-12 has one big advantgae: built in igniters so you can just hook the coils up to the ecu without buying additional igniters or something..



But I don't have experience with aftermarket ecu's and tuning so I don't know wich is best...

 

I believe the Tec3 also has the same setup. That is a neat feature, and one of the 'advantages' I always write down for the tec3 when comparing it with the e11v2. However, aside from making the engine bay a little cleaner I don't think there is much of a benefit.

 

rotary4life:

first, I'm sory for my bad english...



actually my engine is bolted in the car but i am curious about how did you fitted your engines mount and and your iol pan to clear the steering linkage



and in my case the intake is very close to the hood... no contact but when running ??? i am not sure! ahhahah



about the oil metering pump, what to do? will the Ltx-12 drive it? i don't want to mix my fuel!



thx!

 

RX-JESUS

I move the engine and trans. 3 to 4 inches towards the rear. The oilpan still would'nt clear the linkage so I constructed my own centerlink with a curve towards the front. I also cut off the front lump on the pan so that I could lower the engine.

I used solid mounts because the torque would break the rubber mounts. I took my intake manifold to a machine shop and shaved 5/16 on each side where they both meet that gave me more clearance for the hood. For the metering you need a timming cover from 1987 turboII it will bolt on. Any more questions just ask.

 

It's pronounced and spelled 'front cover'. That little chain is actually for the oil pump.