Engine Sounds Like A Lawnmover
#15
yeah i've changed my plugs countless times and it never fixed anything...they just fouled really quickly, especially in the rear rotor. i have yet to do the compression test correctly. i was told that a regular compression tester will work, but you have to do it a certain way. you have to keep one plug still in (ex:if you screw the compression tester in the leading hole, leave a plug in the trailing hole of the same rotor, but i try it with that plug loosened one turn), and you have to hold in the pressure release valve in the tester and watch the gauge for what it bounces at while you get someone to turn the engine over. it should bounce at around 100 or so lbs each time. i did it a different way so i dont know if i have one blown apex seal or not. btw i am by no means an expert, and this is all just what i have been told by a wankel-knowledgable friend of mine...dont hold it against me
#16
Hey there... Here is what the workshop manual says: Warm the engine up, shut off, allow to sit for approx 10 min. For the 12A engine, remove the trailing-side spark plug only for the side to be measured, the reason for this is because uncombusted gases would be discharged through the plug holes, Disconnect both the trailing and leading side primary wires, connect the adapter of the compression tester to the front rotor housing, It also says that compression tester 49 H075 280 or 49 0820 280K are the ones to use because a conventional piston tester only reads the highest pressure of the three combustion chambers of the rotor housing. Depress the accelerator pedal completely, crank the engine for 5-10 seconds record you results and measure the rear side in the same manner. I myself have not done this procedure but what they say about the 3 different combustion chambers make sense..
Chris
Chris
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turborotor
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08-07-2002 08:30 PM
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