Hi I am new to nopistons.com but anyway my car will start with the choke out and run horrible and it wont idle, so I checked the sparks plugs and they were all black so I cleaned them, later I brought my car to a

mechanic who knew nothing about pistons and rebuilt the carburetor but that did not help,6 months later put some gas in the tank which was low then found out it was flooded so I unflooded it got it started with alot of white spoke coming out the

the back tail pipe send out alot of white smoke , then after 3 minuted of running it I heard a big PUFF and one minute later my engine started to smoke which was also white last I shut if off cheked the temp gagea

and it said that it was not overheated. Well I don't know whats wrong with this car it sat for 12 years in a shed before I bought it and it use to work but not anymore.

 

I would start out checking your vacuum lines. A backfire will make that pop and either pop off vacuum lines or break them, especially after sitting in a barn that long

 

Is your car automatic? My car had almost all the same symptoms except for the rough running and it was from a valve that relieves pressure in an auto transmission. It vents to the carb and when it leaks the carb sucks up the tranny fluid. Don't remember the exact name of the valve but it's on a thread in this section. It's called 'on the verge of tears' if you want to look at it or might think it's the problem you have.

 

Sorry I have not replied for a long time, I forgot about this post. And sorry for my grammar I wrote this pretty badly. I meant my mechanic knew nothing about rotary engines.



The car is a manual and my mechanic checked for vacuum leaks and I checked for vacuum leaks.



Could this be a bad coolant seal, or maybe a corner seal?

 

Now I took off the spark plugs and put Marvel Mystery Oil into the engine and let it sit for 24 hours.



I started it up making the biggest white cloud come out of my tailpipe. The car died a few times but after 5-10 minutes it was running a lot better and actually idled with



smoke coming out of the I think catalytic converter or exhaust manifold but after about another 10 minutes it would not idle but it did run.



So the next morning I try to start it up and I could not keep it running for a minute unless I pumped it 20 times. I also cleaned the spark plugs.



I checked through the window of the carburetor and it was empty



So I am now guessing this is a ventilation issue, Carburetor issue, or a vacuum leak I cannot find.

 

it is important that you check that your fuel bowl vent solenoid is connected and functioning.



check this out too https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...kMjZl&hl=en_US

 

Is the fuel bowl vent solenoid the same thing as a air vent solenoid?



If it is I do hear it clicking every time I turn on the key.

 

check out this doc https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...kMjZl&hl=en_US



it will show you all of the assemblies exploded on the nikki carb.



also a lot of the times, since you mentioned you had a mechanic rebuild it with no knowledge of nikki carbs, they spacer plate between your carb and the intake manifold has two built in gaskets that should never be removed. if your mechanic scraped them off and installed the ones from a rebuild kit, this will definitely cause vacuum leaks. or if your mechanic installed the gaskets from a rebuild kit over the existing gaskets, that will block all the vacuum port holes in the spacer and essentially you will have no vacuum going to the carb. these are common mistakes.

 

http://intertron.com/ron/images/carb/c13.jpg

yes it is. sorry i did not answer your question in my last post.

 

If it was rebuilt right do you know of any other problems it might have? My mechanic did not know how to adjust the carburetor could it just be a wrong adjustment(s)?

Maybe I could adjust it but I don't know what to do even when I look on sterlings site I can't find the things I must adjust even when looking at the carb manual also I dont have a tachometer to help adjust the carb.